The Introduction And Development Of Lace-related Handicrafts In China

The lace and drawnwork industry was one of the most important industries in the export of Chinese handicrafts in the 20 th century,but it gradually declined at the end of the 20 th century due to changes in the social environment and consumer tastes.“Huabian Chousha”(lace and drawnwork)have gradually become local traditional handicrafts.However,the introduction of this type of craft has generally been related to Western missionaries and is closely related to Western lace-related handicrafts.Although the Westen origin of these handicrafts has been generally recognized by the academic circles,there are no comprehensive and systematic research results on the detailed technology introduction history of different regions in this type of process system and the correspondence of specific Western technology categories.Based on the collection of a large number of relevant text materials scattered at home and abroad from the end of the 19 th century to the middle of the 20 th century,this dissertation sorted out more than 100 Chinese-related reports mainly during the Republic of China,more than 200 records in foreign languages,and a large number of Chinese lace-related advertising items in the United States,Australia and Australia.This dissertation research and supplement the specific history of introduction of lace handicrafts in China at the end of the 19 th century.By using field research work in each production center to learn the main local process technology.At the same time,the information of lace and drawnwork products from domestic and foreign museums and personal collections is sorted out and analyzed.The whole paper comprehensively uses research methods such as literature collation and mutual verification,image comparison research,field investigation,etc.,and mainly conducts research in several aspects: clarify the context of the Western lace system,study the history of the propagation of lace technology in various regions of China,and put lace and drawnwork made in China in the context of Western background to conduct process analysis and Western technology traceability,to study the reasons why lace technology can be mass-produced and form a lace and drawnwork industry in China;and analyze the export characteristics and local characteristics of Chinese lace and drawnwork changes.Through this dissertation,the second chapter systematically displays the relationship and development trajectory of the western lace system and main varieties,and provides a complete description of the social aesthetics and the changes in lace varieties and styles from the 16 th to the19 th century.At the same time,this paper studies the use of western lace products in Chinese society in the early days,and believes that there are traditional western lace in the so-called western lace used in early China,but mainly machine lace and Passementerie products similar to lace.Regarding the propagation path of lace technology in China,this paper changes the way of historical description of a single area in common research,and integrates the areas where lace artisan production occurs in China.The third chapter divides China’s lace and drawnwork production areas into Shandong,Chaoshan,Jiangsu,Zhejiang and Shanghai and nearly ten other regions,and reviews the history of receiving western lace technology in these areas where lace has been made.It is believed that although lace technology has been briefly learned in many places in China,the real lace and drawnwork industry was driven by Yantai in Shandong,Shantou in Chaoshan and Shanghai.Although there are some urban locations that have learned lace technology directly from abroad for a long time,the production system of the entire region is gradually connected into a more integrated system under the drive of these three major central cities in the region where the three major central cities are located.and therefore a more integrated industrial network was born.Shandong,Chaoshan,Jiangsu,Zhejiang and Shanghai,as the three major centers nationwide,are driving industries in Beijing,Tianjin,Northeast China,and central China.The fourth chapter analyzes the emergence of Chinese lace-related varieties in early foreign documents,and believes that China’s lace and drawnwork industry has learned and produced a large number of lace-related technologies in China during the historical development process,including bobbin lace,needle lace,Filet lace,drawnwork,crochet lace,tatting lace,and so on.Based on the framework of the Western lace system,this dissertation traces the origins of Chinese lace and drawnwork to Western technology.This dissertation believes that the bobbin lace made in Yantai is based on the torchon lace and Cluny lace in the western bobbin lace,while the Qingzhou Lace is the Cantu lace in the bobbin lace.The hand lace in Jiangsu,Zhejiang and Shanghai is often referred to as "Wanlvsi",so it has always been considered to be derived from Venetian lace.This dissertation distinguishes the complex references to the "Venetian lace" in the West,and believes that the hand lace made in Jiangsu,Zhejiang and Shanghai,especially the Xiaoshan area belongs to a type of Burano lace that appeared widely in the 20 th century.The earliest drawnwork technology produced in Shantou originated from the Mexican drawnwork technique that was popular in home linen and decoration at the end of the 19 th century and the beginning of the 20 th century.There is a certain difference between this kind of craft and the common drawnwork technique once made in Shandong and Shanghai.The fifth chapter first integrates the data of China’s lace and drawnwork industry in domestic and foreign economic reports over the years,and uses this as a basis to divide the establishment,development,and the rise and fall of China’s lace and drawnwork industry.This dissertation combines the political,economic and cultural changes that occurred at home and abroad during the same period of development,and analyzes the comprehensive motivations behind the industrial development in each period.And the influence of various factors in the budding stage of lace and drawnwork industry is the focus of this chapter.This dissertation believes that the religious nature of lace craftsmanship has led to the concentration of incoming people as missionaries;the development of women’s careers in religious activities provides carriers(female missionaries)and learners(female religious groups)for technology dissemination;Industry activities of religious tried to bring lace crafts from small-scale production to the category of industrialized production;China’s traditional textile embroidery techniques fit well with the techniques required for lace making;the 19 th century coincided with the revival of lace art that made this industrial attempt a success,and then took root in China and continued to develop.In the end,this dissertation discusses both the export characteristics and localization of China’s lace and drawnwork industry.It is believed that the main consumer market of Chinese lace drawnwork products is the western society.Although China has absorbed this kind of technology to a certain extent,due to the constraints of western consumer aesthetics,the design of Chinese lace-related crafts has not yet reached complete localization.