| With the widely application of computer technology, the garment industry gradually entered into the computer information age. Garment CAD, non-contact 3D body measurement and other technologies have promoted the development of tailor-made in garment industry. And with requirements for living qualities increasing, personality and well-fitting of garment attracted more attention from consumers in recent years.Especially for women consumers, a strong sense of beauty and physiological characteristics have them put more emphasis on garment personality and well-fitting.So in order to achieve the tailor-made and meet consumers’ demands for personalized clothing, the development of 3D garment CAD system has become an inevitable trend in the garment industry.In this paper, based on 3D point-cloud data, the neck feature was studied to establish the generation rules for neck root circumference line, which could be used to construct neck root circumference model in 3D virtual modeling of female upper body. Then aesthetic sense and structure of women suits were studied to find out automatically generation rules of women suits. Finally, with human sizes extracted by 2D anthropometry system, pattern auto-generation system was developed, which could generate pattern of women suits according to female body feature. The main work and innovation of this paper include:(1) Anthropometry216 female students from Soochow University were selected as research objects, and 3D body measurement, manual measurement and photo measurement were used to measure human body sizes. Secondary development of 3D human point-cloud data was done to measure the height, width, thickness and girth of female characteristic positions by the software named Imageware.(2) Characteristic points and line rules of neck rhizosphereFirstly the characteristic points and line of neck root circumference were determined in 3D body point-cloud pictures. Secondly with the software named SPSS, the correlations about height, width and thickness of characteristic points were separately analysed, which could be used to find out the generation rules for neck root circumference.Then the correlations among neck root circumference,width and thickness were also analysed. Building the rules above can make collar patterns really fit the shape of neck root circumference, which personalized collar patterns. As well as the rules above could provide the basis for neck root circumference modeling and tailoring collar pattern system.(3) Aesthetic research on women suitsBased on cognitive psychology, aesthetic experiments about women divided suits were done.And then the basic women suit which got the highest score was obtained. The details were as followed: Firstly, the dividing modeling of women suits was classified, and 90 suit images with different dividing modeling were drawn. Then with 64 students chosen as objects, business and preference were selected as two evaluating indexes to estimate the aesthetic of women divided suits. And at last the best dividing modeling of women suits were obtained by the software named SPSS. Aesthetic research on women suits can meet female consumers’ demands for beauty, and provide the basic styles for the following pattern design.(4)Pattern generative rulesThe third standard pattern of women upper model was chosen as the pattern prototype. And body data extracted from non-contact 2D anthropometry system were as basic sizes.Then pattern generative rules of women suits were summed up.In this part, study on pattern generative rules can meet consumers’ demands for personality and fit, which also laid the foundation for the construction of pattern generative system.(5) Pattern auto-generation system of women suitsBy choosing Open GL as graphical interface, Visual Studio as developing platform, pattern auto-generation system of women suits was developed.The programming method was as followed:the non-contact 2D anthropometry system and 3D virtual modeling of female upper body were developed in previous researches. And in this paper, based on previous researches, the neck rhizosphere modeling was built in 3D mannequin modeling. The pattern generative interfaces were built according to pattern generative rules. In a word, the pattern auto-generation system of women suits could automatically generate personized patterns of women suits, and also provide technical support for tailor-made. |