Study On Appearance Evaluation Of Lapel Collar And Its Influencing Factors

Lapel collar is the most important part of the suit,and its appearance plays a decisive role in the style and quality of the whole suit.Therefore,it is the key to accurately evaluate the appearance of the lapel and select the appropriate fabric and fusible interlining according to the appearance.In order to accurately evaluate the lapel collar appearance and explore its influence factor,common fabrics and interlinings were selected as the experimental objects.Through the test of fabric properties,10 kinds of fabrics and 8 kinds of interlinings were selected.50 kinds of adhesive composites were obtained by the bonding experiment,and the lapel samples were made according to the unified process parameters.Through the subjective and objective evaluation experiments,the objective evaluation models of the lapel collar appearance were established.The effect of properties on lapel collar appearance were discussed,and models for predicting the appearance were established.According to the prediction models,the selection and compatibility of fabric and adhesive lining was suggested.The main results of this subject are as follows:1.The objective evaluation system of the lapel collar appearance including 3 aspects:flatness,smoothness and fitting degree was constructed based on image processing technology.（1）Wavelet decomposition of Matlab was used to extract 3 flatness characteristic indexes including Sh₅,Sv₅ and Sd₅.（2）Photoshop and UG NX10.0 software were used to extract 4 circular smoothness indexes including N,M,H and CV.（3）The bwarea function of Matlab was used to calculate 2 fitting indexes including Zn and Zw.2.Through literature review and expert interview,the subjective evaluation indexes were identified as the overall aesthetics,collar flatness,collar smoothness,inside and outside collar fitting degree.Through the correlation and regression analysis between the subjective and objective evaluation indexes,the objective evaluation models of the lapel collar appearance were established.R² of models are between 0.836⁰.930.The models were verified by 10samples.The reference range of the objective indexes was summarized.The results show that:（1）The prediction models had good prediction effect.The objective evaluation indexes based on the image processing technology can evaluate the appearance of the lapel collar comprehensively and accurately.（2）The overall beauty of the lapel collar are mainly influenced by 4 objective indexes:lnSh₅,CV,Zn and Zw.When the lnSh₅ is less than 4.63,the collar is more flat;when the CV is less than 92.30,the collar is more smooth;when the Zn is less than 10826.01,the inner line of collar is more suitable;when Zw is less than 5635.03,the outer line of collar is more suitable.3.The collars were divided into wool fabric and cotton fabric in two cases.The relationship between the lapel collar appearance and the properties of the adhesive complex were analyzed,and linear regression models were established.The results show that:The weight,thickness and elastic index of the composite are the important factors that affect the lapel collar appearance of wool fabric.The less elastic and thinner the adhesive composite is,the more beautiful appearance the collar has.Drape index,elastic index and recovery rate are the important factors that affect the lapel collar appearance of cotton fabric.The less elastic,the more drooping and resilient the adhesive composite is,the more beautiful appearance the collar has.4.By exploring the relationship between the lapel collar appearance and the properties of the fabric and adhesive lining,the covariance analysis models were established.According to the result of the collar modeling,the better compatibility between the fabric and the adhesive lining was summed up.The results show that:（1）The appearance of woolen lapel collars are mainly influenced by the weight,thickness,elastic index and recovery rate of the fabric.The collar made by the lighter,less elastic and resilient wool fabric matching with the thicker sticky linings has more beautiful appearance.（2）The cotton ones are mainly influenced by elastic index and recovery rate of fabric,as well as thickness,stiffness,softness and drape index of lining.The collar made by the less elastic and resilient cotton fabric matching with the soft and draping lining has more beautiful appearance.Especially for the thick and stiff cotton fabric,using soft and draping interlining can significantly improve the appearance of the lapel collar.The subject provides scientific reference for the quality inspection of the lapel collar.It also provides theoretical basis and practical method for the accurate selection of adhesive lining.