Intelligent Pattern Forming Research On Custom Male’s Trousers

With the increase of the consumers’ aesthetic appreciation and the trend of the transformation and upgrading of the garment industry,the customization of clothing has become a popular business.As the highly automated clothing production system makes the clothing enterprise has the ability to produce mass customized clothing,but there are still many pain points that limiting the development of this business,one of the most prominent is that the customized pattern can’t be designed efficiently.Clothing CAD software have already improve the efficiency of pattern design greatly,but it still can’t meet the need of mass customized clothing product,so the intelligent pattern forming technology becomes the key technology to break through the limitation of the customized clothing business.This paper was based on the pattern of custom trousers for male.Male college students at Soochow University were chosen as the customized groups.The Auto CAD software was taken to carry on the research.And the process of intelligent pattern forming was the main research contents.First of all,we conduct an experiment of custom size collecting,to make a study on the body type of male college students at Soochow University.The latest three years measurement data were selected as a supplement.We carried out an accruracy test of all these data,and leaved the accurate data to be the study sample.The dimensions related to trousers’ pattern design were extracted to perform basic statistical analysis,correlation analysis and factor analysis.The results show that there are two kinds of factor impact the structure of trousers,the first one was named as length factor,and the another one was named as circle factor.According to the dimensions contained by the two kinds of factor,we took waistline,hipline,waist to hip distance and hip height as the reference dimensions to disign the pattern of trousers.The four dimensions were taken as the characteristic indexes to perform the cluster analysis,and we got the result dividing the sample into four types.Then we discussed the links in the intelligent pattern forming chain,and divided the paths of pattern forming into three stage as design language,mathematical language and computer language.The process of trousers’ pattern design were turn into a parametric expression system,the characteristic element of pattern were divided into three types as specification attributes,rule attributes and relation attributes by their property,or five types as size parameter,spec parameter,shape parameter,constraint parameter and geometry parameter by their effect.After all of these parameter were divided into object and constraint relation by their driving logic to be encoded,we got the basic mathematical model of pattern and the coordinate of key points.In order to make the graph created by computer become exact and artistic,we chose the Bezier curve to fit the line of pattern,and described the fitting process and rull in detail.According to the special body type problem,we put forward the method to differentiate the body type for trousers,took difference value of the curve length of trousers’ crotch and the dimension of male’s crotch as the identification index of special body type,and provided the modifier method of pattern for special body type.And in consideration of the technical feature of computer graphics processing,we dicussed the program logic and data structure of intelligent pattern forming.At last,we took the dimensions of four types sample obtained by cluster analysis as custom size,and simulated the intelligent pattern forming of male’s trousers in the Auto CAD software.Two of them were determined to be the simple type,and their pattern were formed directly.The others were determined to be the special type as prominent hip,and their pattern were formed after been modified.The whole process was smooth and successful,it proved that the paths of pattern forming raised by this paper is accurate and viable.We imported the forming graphics into the Optitex software to get the pattern for clothing,verified the sewing performance,fitness and style of the pattern,and processed the 3D virtual fit of them,the result all turn out to be satisfactory.Therefore it proved that the parametrical CAD model raised by this paper is reliable.