| Breast,which is the only organ without bone,will become loose and drooping for giving birth and unhealthy habits day by day.The brassiere for this kind of breast should have a good ability of shaping,especially pushing breast.25-45 years old females were selected as the subjects in this paper.31 measurements which wre related to breast were measured by Martin instrument and[TC]2 Non-contact 3D body scanners to analyze the features of breast shape,the subjects’ requires were summed up according to the difference between the actual breast shape and beautiful breast that was widely recognized.Throngh Principal Component Analysis,it was found that breast circumference,under-breast circumference and difference between them was the most closed factors to breast shape which came out to be exactly with international standard of sorting size of bra.Figure dates of 30 females belonged to 75B size of bra were selected to create the intermediate 3 dimensional mode since 75B was the most widely size between females,and finally obtained several sizes which were necessary to pattern of brassiere.AutoCAD was selected to simulate the curve of breast bottom shape.Using the geometric projection principle,the curve of breast bottom shape which was found out to be 3D was turned into 2D curve as underwire shape for this experiment.Then the middle values of three-dimensional model data was transformed into STL files with technologies of transformation and cutted according the requirement and the division blocks was materialized by using the three-dimensional molding machine "Dimension Elite".The basic pattern of brassiere for this paper was completed in three-dimensional cutting on the division block and found out that waist darts,bust dart and cleavage dart were 25°,15°,21°accordingly and totally was 60°.Base on dart pivoting,60° was transformed into bust dart and cleavage dart in steps of 10°and 7 bras of 3/4 cup wre designed and manufacturied by special medical equipments to study the different influence on shaping breast.Meanwhile cup padding was also designed to be study its additional effect on plastic.Samples were tried on by 10 women who wear the same size of bra.In order to get the object evaluation,the sizes both naked and with the specimens on the subjects were measured respectively to obtain the object value and the subjective evaluations were recorded at the same time.The result was analyzed combined the object evaluation and the object evaluation and finally figured out the optimum design solutions. |