Innovation And Application Of Modern Song Brocade Products Processed By Piece Dyeing On Raw Weave

With the popularization of traditional cultural and the improvement of people’s living standards,traditional Chinese textiles represented by Song Brocade have gradually attracted attention.As China’s four famous brocades,Song Brocade’s industrial development has many opportunities because of its unique production technology,exquisite appearance,tough texture and deep cultural heritage.In the current fast-paced life,how to keep up with the times,develop new products and let the tradition to "new style" to inherit and promote the Song Brocade culture further is currently the focus of research.At present,modern Song Brocade’s development is mainly faced with the problems of old design,high production cost,and narrow audience.In this context,this article uses the method of piece dying on raw weave to innovate and develop Song Brocade products,broaden product style and enrich the product line.Firstly,the traditional and the modern Song Brocade were compared and analyzed in terms of color and pattern.Traditional Song Brocade has many colors,complex patterns,and a single style,while modern products are simple and diverse.Then combined with contemporary aesthetics to determine the development plan.By classifying and summarizing the existing products on the market and combining the conditions available in the piece dying on raw weave process,two-color and three-color products are selected as the main research objects.The results are summarized from the three indicators of color usage,area size and gray ratio.The relationship between the product style and these values was obtained.When the pattern and ground texture color contrast is large,the gray ratio of the two is concentrated at 0.4-0.6;when the two colors transition naturally,the gray ratio is between 0.7-0.8;when the fabric style is soft and dark patterns appear,the gray ratio is greater than 0.8.Next,the color matching scheme in multi-color products is counted.It also summarizes the themes,types and spatial arrangement of common patterns,which provides further theoretical reference for the development plan.And determine the final plan from the three aspects of main color,pattern design,gray ratio of patterns and ground colors.Secondly,in order to accurately grasp the dyed fabric color,a dyeing experiment were carried out.Wool and polyester were selected from commonly used fibers,dyed in the same bath with silk,and the influence of the four factors of dye pH,dyeing temperature,holding time and dye concentration on fiber color were explored.The conclusions were obtained.When silk and polyester are dyed in the same bath,silk is mainly affected by the holding time and the concentration of the dye solution,and polyester is mainly affected by the dyeing temperature and the concentration of the dye solution.By extending the holding time and changing the dyeing temperature,it is easier to adjust the color gray ratio of the two,thereby changing the contrast of the two colors.When silk and wool are dyed in the same bath,wool is mainly affected by the dyeing temperature,and silk is mainly affected by the concentration of the dye solution.It is easier to change the gray ratio of the two by changing the dyeing temperature and adjust the color contrast.By setting up multiple sets of dyeing schemes,comparing the color gray ratio results of the two fibers and the actual color,the dyeing conditions that meet the requirements are obtained.At the same time,the color spectrum was obtained,which provide strong support for color selection.Based on the results obtained in the previous tests,samples were weaved and dyed,which confirmed the feasibility of the raw fabric dyeing process applied to Song Brocade products.Based on the dyeing results,the problems in the fabric design and dyeing process were summarized.On this basis,two series of "urban style" and "pastoral style" product design practice were carried out.