| Song brocade is one of the three traditional Chinese brocades.Market survey indicated that products with NFC shielding function are common in appearance,and most of them are metal mesh plastic ferrule or metal fabric.In order to improve the added value of Song brocade fabric and its bags,this paper combines the anti-NFC data reading function with Song brocade fabric,the fabric can not only avoid the bank card and mobile wallet in the bag being maliciously stolen and protect the personal property,but also has the unique pattern and color of Song brocade in appearance,which is the product of the combination of elegant Song brocade art and modern technology,and has a good market prospect.The song brocade fabric with NFC data masking function was weaved by two groups of warp and N groups of weft.In this paper,two different methods of warp and weft raw materials design were studied,and the NFC shielding effectiveness and the performance of luggage were compared.In the first type of design method,ground warp and face warp were designed with mulberry silk at the ration of 3 : 1,there were N groups of weft,and N groups of weft ratio were designed at the ration of 1 : 1,the front N-1 group of weft were designed with mulberry silk,the last group of weft(N group)used the silver ion fiber;while in the second type of design method,ground warp was designed with mulberry silk and face warp was designed with mulberry silk at the ration of 3 : 1,there were N groups of weft,and N groups of weft ratio were 1 : 1,the front N-1 group of weft were designed with mulberry silk,the last group of weft(N group)used the silver ion fiber.The purpose of using mulberry silk is to maintain the original texture and soft surface gloss of Song brocade,using silver ion fiber is to make the fabric have the function of shielding NFC data reading.To keep the original texture and soft surface gloss of Song brocade,the positive effect of the fabric showed the color of warp,one group of weft flower or two groups of weft flower.In order to make the fabric have the function of preventing NFC from reading information,warp B and weft N intertwined at the back of the fabric through 2/1 warp twill weave.This Song brocade jacquard fabric had three classes of weaves.In the first class of weaves,the upper layer was interwoven by warp A and a group of weft in the N group with 2/1 warp twill weave,and the surface of fabricshowed the color of warp A.The middle layer was interwoven by warp A and weft two to weft N-1with 1/2 weft twill weave.The lower layer was interwoven by warp B and weft N with 2/1 warp twill weave.In the second class of weaves,the upper layer were interwoven by warp B and one group of weft in the former N-1 group with 1/2 weft twill weave,and the surface of fabric showed the color of the weft,the middle layer was interwoven by warp B and remaining weft in the weft of the former N-1 group with 1/2 weft twill weave,the lower layer was interwoven by warp B and weft N with 2/1 warp twill weave.In the third class of weaves,the upper layer was interwoven by warp B and two groups of weft in the former N-1 group with 1/2 weft twill weave,the surface of fabric showed the color of the two groups of weft.The middle layer was interwoven by warp B and one group of weft in the former N-1 group with 1/2 weft twill weave.The lower layer was interwoven by warp B and weft N with 2/1 warp twill weave.In the design of conventional Song brocade,warp B was the silver ion fiber and was designed as the face warp in 1/2 weft twill weave.To prevent the warp B from being oxidation in this design method,and affected the color and appearance of the fabric,this paper designed warp A as face warp,warp B and weft N weaved wtih2/1 warp twill weave form a mesh NFC shielding effect.At this time,warp A was used as face warp in the weft flower weave,the warp A would have shrinkage problems of weaving,so it is necessary to rotate the position of the warp A in the Song brocade weaving design.After testing and analyzing the shielding effectiveness of the two types of design methods,it can be seen that the fabric one group of weft used sliver ion fibers has a low shielding effect;according to the national standard SJ20525.1995,the fabric one group of warp and weft used sliver ion fibers can block over 99% NFC data at frequencies of 10 MHz,30MHz,100 MHz,300MHz,1000 MHz,3000MHz,etc,which has excellent shielding NFC data reading effect.According to the characteristics of the fabric and the use of the luggage,exploring the performance of the luggage of the fabric,the conventional Song brocade jacquard fabric,the fabric one group of weft used sliver ion fibers,the fabric one group of warp and weft used sliver ion fibers were tested and analyzed for wear-resisting,wrinkle recovery,pilling,rubbing fastness and water resistance performance.The results showed that the fabric one group of warp and weft used sliver ion fibers have excellent performance in wear resistance,pilling resistance,rubbing fastness and waterproof performance,which meet the requirements of the use of luggage fabrics,while Anti-pilling performance and wrinkle recovery performance needed to be further improved.With the increase of the proportion of silver ion fiber used in the warp and weft,the wear resistance,wrinkle recovery and waterproof performance of Song brocade fabric also increased,while the three types of method in designing Song brocade were similar in performance anti-pilling and rubbing fastness. |