Research On Influence Of Structural Design On Silhouette Of X-shape Women’s Suit

As one of the important categories of women’s wear,women’s suit reflects development of fashion trend,favored by majority of female consumers.With competition and development of fashion industry,there are many fuzzy concepts in empirical way of pattern making,which needs to be improved.Meanwhile,as two essential parts of clothing,research on relationship between structure and silhouette will also promote development of clothing digitization technology.This paper takes X-shape women’s suit as research object,analyzing and discussing influence of structure on silhouette to optimize structural design method of X-shape women’s suit under this background.The first step is collecting and organizing related literature to classify and summarize body modeling of X-shape women’s suit,combined with method of structural design and three types of commonly used female top prototypes,donghua prototype,Liu Ruipu prototype and Japanese new bunka prototype,whose are compared and analyzed to establish basic women’s suit based on Japanese new bunka prototype.Secondly,eye tracking technology is used to extract focus of silhouette design on six X-shape women’s suits.It is concluded that control areas of silhouette on X-shape women’s suits mainly concentrated on waist and chest by way of multivariate analysis of variance and analysis of means,so chest-waist difference will be taken as next research variable.Then it searches for published references of clothing patterns,and a total of 96 women’s suit pattern blocks are collected,all of which will be divided into four groups according to chest-waist difference by cluster analysis.After this subjective evaluation experiement will be done to eliminate pattern blocks do not belong to X-shape,as well as the rest 92 pattern blocks are also checked via CAD software and all data will be acquired to establish pattern database about six pieces and eight pieces respectively.Interval range and correlation of each variable are obtained to establish linear regression models,as well as new structural design methods,on the basis of descriptive analysis and correlation analysis.Furthermore,sample pattern blocks of X-shape women’s suit,six pieces and eight pieces,respectively,are designed by interval range of each variable and linear regression equation.In order to verify this new structural design method of women’s suit,virtual fitting software and model fitting are used to test these pattern blocks to observe and analyze rationality of this structural design method.Finally,two types of X-shape women’s suit,six pieces and eight pieces,are divided intodifferent silhouette by subjective evaluation experiment.It is concluded that six pieces X-shape women’s suits could be divided into three groups according to chest-waist difference:small-X ranges from 12 cm to 16 cm,medium-X ranges from 16 cm to 22 cm and large-X ranges from 22 cm to 24 cm.And eight pieces X-shape women’s suits could be divided into two groups: small-X rangs from 12 cm to 20 cm and large-X ranges from 20 cm to 24 cm.Finally,interval ranges of silhouette subdivision on two types of X-shape women’s suit are obtained.A collection of women’s suits are sketched and designed based on study results above,aiming to apply new structural design method of women’s suits to practice.Through adjustment and grasp of variables such as chest-waist difference,waist darts and position of princess line,accurately attaining different X-shape silhouettes,showing influence of structure on silihouette,which is also the most directive and effective test for study results.The research on influence of structural design on silihouette of X-shape women’s suit is different from traditional empirical methods of pattern making.On the one hand,it lays foundation for scientific and systematic research on structural design of clothing,and at the same time,it has positive promotion for research on modeling design and accurately pattern making of clothing.