The Technology Research Of Avoiding Sewing Pucker On Non-iron Shirt Curved Hem

Sewing wrinkles is a common problem during the process of making no-iron shirt.This article provides a scientific advice to the company to product no-iron shirt by studying the various factors that have caused the sewing wrinkles on no-iron shirt curved hem.This is important for improving the quality of clothing and choosing reasonable parameters to improve corporate benefits.This article is based on the research project of the wangbuliao clothing company limited hunan province,and the no-iron shirt curved hem as the subject.According to Test and statistical analysis,starting the Related studies on sewing methods,sewing craft parameters,basic parameters,physical physics and its relationship with sewing wrinkles subjective assessment indicators.The predictive model of the best sewing conditions under the best sewing method is designed to choose suitable sewing conditions based on the parameters date which is relevant to sewing wrinkles,so that can improve phenomenon on no-iron curved hem and improve corporate.The main research and results of the paper are as follows:（1）Using the company’s pure cotton and cotton polyester 10 no-iron fabrics and using KES’s style spectrometer to test the physics of fabric.The analysis found that there are multiple commonalities between cotton and cotton polyester no-iron fabrics.（2）Analyzing the positions of all the parts that are sewn into the folds and determine the location of four points;proposed Surface roughness and high of a point of cloud by three-dimensional laser scanning as objective evaluation and Created a subjective assessment of Sewing wrinkles based on no-iron shirt curved hem.（3）The article choose the thread density,sewing line tension,sewing foot pressure,arc as the sewing craft parameters.The sewing experiment was performed in the three sewing methods including the fish spines scroll,hem presser foot and pure hand.Based on subjective assessment levels,objective high-level values,Surface roughness indicators about the sewing wrinkles of fabric curved hem,Making sure that the fish spines scroll is the best way to sew.（4）Analyzing the link between the sewing craft parameters and subjective assessment indicators,the impact of the parameters on the subjective assessment indicators,the main order of the sewing craft parameters effect on the sewing wrinkles on no-iron shirt curved hem under different subjective assessment indicators by using graphs,statistical analysis.And on the minimum principle of three counts basis,getting the 10 best sewing conditions of ten fabrics.（5）By cluster analysis,combining the best sewing conditions of two types of no-iron shirt fabrics with a group,splitting three groups best sewing craft parameters with distinct differences.category 1:thread density16-18/3cm,sewing line tension80c N,sewing foot pressure25N and arc a（1#、5#、7#、9#、10#）category 2:thread density16-18/3cm,sewing line tension20c N,sewing foot pressure30-40N and arc a（3#、4#、8#）category 3:thread density18/3cm,sewing line tension40c N,sewing foot pressure25N and arc b（2#、6#）（6）Ralated analysis of 12 physical performance indicators and best sewing conditions,by judgment analysis,building a judgment predictive model based on the 7 fabric of physics for self-variable and the best sewing conditions for variables.Function 1:Y=7.210X₁+1229.383X₃+61.367X₆-3237.475X₇-0.990X₈+8.420X₉+7.367X₁₀-686.399The best sewing conditions:thread density16-18/3cm,sewing line tension80c N,sewing foot pressure25N and arc aFunction 2:Y=7.881X₁+1312.058X₃+68.972X₆-4774.924X₇-2.381X₈+9.204X₉+7.885X₁₀-784.015The best sewing conditions:thread density16-18/3cm,sewing line tension20c N,sewing foot pressure30-40N and arc aFunction 3:Y=8.131X₁+1178.577X₃+62.495X₆-4622.212X₇+16.267X₈+8.004X₉+6.823X₁₀-667.414The best sewing conditions:thread density18/3cm,sewing line tension40c N,sewing foot pressure25N and arc bIn this article,the innovations are:（1）the arc of curved hem is one of the variable parameters,and based on a different method of sewing,which can consider the effects of various factors on sewing more comprehensively;（2）having proposed the sewing Surface roughness and dots as a sewing measure;（3）having created a predictive model that based on the 7 fabric of physics for self-variable and the best sewing conditions for variables by using the judgment analysis.