Color Transfer And Change In The Process Of Knitwear Design And Development

With the proportion of knitwear in the total garment production and sales increasing,consumers’requirements for the sense of design and fashion of knitwear are increasing.As one of the important design elements affecting the overall visual effect and style of knitwear,the color of knitwear is becoming more and more diverse.Because the main source of knitwear color is the color characteristics of dyed yarns and their combination and application in fabrics and final knitwears,and the higher requirements put forward by the market for the production cycle of knitwear and the response speed to the popular trend.It is particularly important for knitwear to accurately select the yarns that meet the design color demand and maintain the consistency of color transmission during knitwear design and development procedures.However,in the actual design and production process of knitwear,with the transmission of color information through different carriers such as color card,yarn sample in cone format,fabric samples and final products,there will be some differences in color hue,lightness and saturation.Based on literature review and knitwear industry interview and investigation,this paper found that the main factors leading to fabric color differences in yarn,structures and stitches,and color design in the process of knitwear design and production.based on which,the yarn,fabric structure and color matching mode were determined as the main factors,and the fabric samples were knitted.The color information value of each sample to be measured was obtained by the combination of spectrophotometer,digital color measurement and image analysis.Using the method of data analysis,this paper analyzes the influences of various influencing factors on the color of knitted fabrics,and puts forward some suggestions on yarn selection and color yarn matching in jacquard stitch.Firstly,based on the reading of relevant literatures and the interview and investigation of knitwear industry including questionnaire and expert interview,it is determined that fiber composition,yarn color,fabric structure type,fabric density and color matching mode are the main influencing factors of color differences in the process of color transmission.Secondly,three kinds of fiber components（wool,cotton and acrylic）and three colors（red,yellow and blue）were selected to knit three kinds of density fabrics with three basic stitches（plain,rib,links and lins）and three kinds of jacquard fabrics（two-color tubular,two-color Birds’eye and three-color Birds’eye）,and the spectral reflectance and color value of the fabric were tested.By analyzing the color value of plain fabric,it can be obtained that:（1）For the technical front loop and technical back back loop of various knitted fabrics,the back loop of the same yarn has higher saturation and lower lightness than the front loop.The fitting equations of saturation value and lightness value between them are as follows:S_B=1.040S_F-0.005,R~2=0.996;V_B=1.008V_F-0.020,R~2=0.999。（2）For plain fabrics with different stitch densities,the hue value hardly changes.（3）The saturation value is affected by stitich density and stitch,in which the stitch density decreases and the saturation value increases;Among the fabrics with three stitches,S_PU>S_R>S_PL.The lightness value is mainly affected by the type of stitch as follows:V_Y>V_PL>V_R>V_PU.（4）The change of fabric color value caused by the change of stitch density is different in fabrics knitted with different colors and fiber components.For the yarn with higher saturation and lightness and less surface hairiness,the influence degree will be more significant.By analyzing the color value of jacquard fabrics:（1）For jacquard fabric with front plain color and other backing colors,the bottom exposure will change the saturation value and lightness value of front fabric color,and the main influencing factor is the shading of bottom color.The regression relationship between front color saturation value and backing color saturation value of jacquard fabric with front plain color is y₁=0.996x₁+0.027x₂-0.035,R~2=0.994.Where,y₁is the saturation value of front plain color jacquard fabric;x₁saturation value of front plain color;x₂saturation value of backing color.The regression relationship between front plain color lightness value and backing lightness value is y₂=0.889 x₁+0.060 x₂+0.007,R~2=0.987.Where,y₂is the front plain color lightness value of plain jacquard fabric;x₁lightness value of front plain color;x₂lightness value of backing color.（2）When two colors are matched,the interaction between color saturation is of the most significant,and the regression relationship is y=-0.044+0.894 x₁+0.120 x_2,R~2=0.907.Where y is the saturation value of the yarn in the two-color matching fabric,x₁is the saturation value of the fabric with plain color woven surface of the yarn in the corresponding fabric,and x₂is the saturation value of the yarn matched with the yarn in the two-color fabric.To sum up,this paper explores the factors that lead to color differences in the transmission of color information in the process of knitwear design and production,which provides a certain basis for designers in yarn selection,and provides a certain reference and idea for more accurate color management in the process of knitwear design and production.