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Study On Origin Of Batik And African Batik Technique

Posted on:2006-03-16Degree:DoctorType:Dissertation
Country:ChinaCandidate:H WangFull Text:PDF
GTID:1101360182974065Subject:Textile Engineering
Abstract/Summary:PDF Full Text Request
Proceeding from the detailed analysis of ancient batik relics in China and the rest of the world, and textual research of ancient literature, the dissertation explores into the origin and spread of batik culture. On the basis of folk research, a detailed study is conducted about African batik technique, patterns, color and garment culture, and the lineage of batik evolution through history is put forward. Then through scientific analysis of batik resist, the quantitative approach to characterization of its physical features is accessible. The content, result and method of the research are as follows:First of all, this dissertation classifies and re-defines the concept of batik in China and the world as a whole. It goes through and works on relevant references in ancient literature and some confusing concepts. Resist dyeing is the essence, while resist material and technology constitute the external part of batik concept. Meanwhile, through textual research of historical literature, ancient batik relics are classified in the form of tables according to their time and space distribution, so as to show the distribution of ancient batik relics in the world and to obtain valuable historical data. Furthermore, the research emphasis is laid on the batik relic unearthed in Fustat, which leads to a conclusion that Indian batik culture and technology is spread to the Mediterranean area via trade in middle ages. Meanwhile, a comparative study is made on ancient batik in ancient India and ancient Egypt.Second, with the analysis of historical literature and unearthed batik relics, the paper summarizes the evolution and innovation of ancient batik technology in China. Batik was popular in Tang Dynasty, and was replaced by Ash-resist in the middle and southern area of Song Dynasty, because wax is in short supply due to production expansion and Ash-resist calls for a lower production cost. The ancient resist instruments used in various regions are also compared in this paper. The copper mould in modern Java is the succession and innovation of wooden printing mould in India and China;the unique mud fluid resist technology in Marie is still preserved insome tribes. Besides, the variety and distribution of natural dyes used in batik are studied, with a research emphasis laid on indigo, a "Huailan" category plant.Third, in a comprehensive analysis approach, and on the basis of predecessors' research, the batik cotton of East Han Dynasty unearthed in Niya, Xinjiang, is studied politically, economically, culturally and historically. With the evidence of "Quluowen" books unearthed in Niya at the same time, and other relics unearthed in India within the same period, we can draw a conclusion that the ancient batik relic may come from "Jiantuoluo", India. In this way, it is safe to say India boasts an early history of batik producing, and has some influence over and exchanges with China, the origin of batik in Asia is studied. In 10 century, with the development of Chinese navigation technology, Chinese batik culture is spread to South East Asia via craftsmen migration and trade of silk and china. To prove this point, a detailed deduction and historical textual research is conducted on batik patterns and traditional Indonesian garment culture. As to the spreading route of batik culture and technology in 15-19 century, the paper proposes that it is first spread from south East Asia to Europe, where the innovational transition from manual batik to machine batik is completed, and then it is spread from Europe to Africa.Fourth, Then in an approach of folk research, the features, structure and types of traditional batik garment in Western Africa are studied intensively in this paper. African batik garments enjoy a strong ethical and religious character. The cultural connotation of batik garments in modern society is discovered in this paper. They have helped to convey the emotions of African black people, advocate for their political rights and symbolize their democracy awareness, thus playing an important role in African politics. Furthermore, African batik garments have bright and striking contrasted colors, in a beautiful harmony with the African natural environment and the black complexion of African people. Besides, the paper studies on the dominant color of batik fabrics in western Africa and the symbolistic and religious characters of colors. It points out how the three attributes contrast of colors and the principle of color area ratio and balance are applied in batik colors, and proposes that batik color application correspond to the black complexion of African people, therefore, providesa clue for the design and innovation of Chinese textile exports to Africa. Besides, batik origin and culture in early Africa is also analyzed, which reveals the long history of batik producing in Africa.Fifth, on the foundation of field research of African tribes and batik market, the paper makes a classified study of more than 4,000 African batik patterns of modern times. Based on a reasonable selection of samples, batik styles in different cultural settings are located and analyzed. African batik texture is classified according to its pattern theme and cultural denotation to reveal its inner cultural connotation and its non-lingual cultural transmission function in Africa. An inferential conclusion is drawn about the possible influence of Sino-African cultural exchange on African batik culture. With the analysis on the origin of African batik patterns, the paper puts forwards that African batik patterns have a strong bearing with African traditional culture and arts such as sculpture and mask, as well as national religions. Furthermore, from the comparative study on African batik patterns such as fish grain, lion grain, drum grain and spiral grain, we can learn that the influence of Chinese culture on African batik. While drum grain and spiral grain feature the general batik culture in the world, representing the worship of human beings for the Nature in primordial culture and the original philosophy of human beings.Sixth, Wax is the main resist material in various parts of the world in ancient time With experimental analysis and models, the resist effect of various resist materials is examined precisely, and the findings correspond to the actual production practice. Besides, in an innovatively advanced material thermodynamic analysis approach, -DMA-, and with new experimental models, the paper conducts precise physical performance experiments on six typically and conventionally combined wax materials, to study on the relationship of adhesiveness and resist effect, and wax elasticity and resist effect. Hence, the former qualitative method of resist effect measurement is replaced by a quantitative one. A set of quantitative index, such as dynamic softening point and melting process, adhesiveness and adhesion force, and elasticity and fragility, to describe and measure the physical performance of resist material, which greatly facilitates the adjustment of batik resist recipe according toproduct style and environmental change to meet the requirements of market.Finally, the paper summarizes the technological innovation of resist material and waxing implement in China and other countries across history, analyzes the historic contribution of European Industrial Revolution to the drastic technological progress from manual batik to machine batik, and puts forward the evolving lineage of batik technology across history. Combining my practice of modern batik production, the paper sums up present batik technology in china, points out the gap between Chinese batik technology and European advanced batik technology and explores into the solution. This paper has carried on the classification from the African wax-resist printing fabric characteristics according to our technology practice of African Wax-resist Printing. The process and technology of the African wax-resist printing from our country are detailed currently, We pointed out the key step of the control product quantity;Based on the analysis about the super wax resist printing technology in Europe and the combination with the production practice of the African wax resist printing in china, real bubbling effect and imitation bubbling effect technology in wax resist printing were developed and its product technique and style is close to the super wax resist printing technology in Europe.
Keywords/Search Tags:Batik, batik resist, wax resist, African, batik patterns, colors, wax resist print, origin, spread
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