Subjective And Objective Evaluation On Semi-fitting Skirt Shape Style Based On Fabric Physical And Mechanical Perporties

Clothing shape style is the shape under special pattern condition of fabric and sense impression of comsumers gained from these shapes.It has a close relation with clothing appearance and directly influences mental and action of consumers,besides, it is related to designer ideas and creating methods.Fabrics are basic materials and directly change clothing shape.But for a long time its evaluation usuallydepends on subjective method,changing with culture background and evaluators taste.Therefore, the results are usually inaccurate and difficult to supervise clothing design and making.Recently,computer technology is integrating with clothing industry,great advancements of fabric drape have made,many models and their making methods including grey system,artificial intelligencet system,statisticmaths are popular,many studies focus on clothing subjective and objective evaluation.Taking semi-fitting skirt as a research,subjective and objective evaluation system about clothing shape style had been built up which was a systemic,scientific, according with actual wearing condition.The system and predictive models were built up based on physical and mechanical properties of fabric for the purpose of find out their relationship.A application mode was put forward to search the relationship between sense impression and engineering,survicing for the reasonable use of fabric.Objective evaluation on semi-fitting shape style were carried out,correlative predictive models were built up based on the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics.Digital camera was used to gain front,side and buttom shape where testing clothing were in mock body,parameters for objective evalulation are gained from Photoshop,Coreldraw software.Mechanical properties and parameters for objective evaluation in different dirtection of semi-fitting skirt were discussed where testing sample were gained at each 15°interval direction.Prediction equation for the ralationship was built up,the differences between theorical values and measure values were compared,the predictive equation precision were analysised and the formability equation in different direction was deducted.The concept of clothing shape style was put forward,parameters for objective evaluation on it were built up.It could be classified into silhouette,space and detail shape.Correlative parameters were angle between front and back,angle between left and right,width,thickness,node number,average peak radius,average vale radius, peak and vale shape ratio,angle shape ratio,area,its calculating equation were also built up.30 different semi-fitting skirts were made with same specification and same making process,its physical and mechanical properties of fabircs and parameters for objective evaluation were tested respectively.Factor analysis was carried out for physical and mechanical properties of fabric,three main factors including extension, mass and bend,form and shear,were picked up by main component analysis,its accumulative contribution was 80.714%,its predictive equation were bulit up.Factor analysis was also carried out for parameters for objective evaluation,three main factors including outline,line,detail are picked up by main component analysis,their accumulative contribution was 73.324%,correlative predictive equation were bulit up.Clustur analysis of parameters for objective evaluation of 30 semi-fitting skirts had been made,the centre values of 5 different kind of testing samples were described separately,its performance of fabircs and parameters for objective evaluation were discussed.Two predictive models of parameters for objective evaluation of semi-fitting skirt were built up separately by BP neural network and regression equation.In BP neural network model,physical and mechanical properties of fabircs were input parameters, parameters for objective evaluation were output parameters.In regression model, parameters for objective evaluation were changing with physical and mechanical properties of fabircs.The purpose of comparing the precision of two predictive models was to find out the suitable predictive method.Three decision groups were built up made of 18 experts who had been working in clothing design,making,sale,teaching for a long time,they divided into 3 groups: designer,engineers and salers,they had evaluated clothing shape style of 30 semi-fitting skirts in actual wearing condition.Decision groups had estabilished subjective evaluation system,put forward parameters for subjective evaluation,there were shape,volume,balance,movement, drape,rhythm,firmness,uniformity,body-fitting and smoothness.They had established ruler,weight for decision groups and for parameters together.Total shape value(TSV) was constituted and calculated.30 semi-fitting skirts were divided into 5 types according to TSV,physical and mechanical properties of fabrics and parameters for subjective evaluation of each type samples were discussed.Two parameters predictive models for subjective evaluation were built up separately by BP neural network and regression equation.In former model,physical and mechanical properties of fabircs were input parameters,parameters for subjective evaluation were output parameters.In later model,TSV were changing with physical and mechanical properties of fabircs.Comparing the precision of two models and the differences between predictive values and measure values,it was easy to find the precision of BP neural network model overmatched that of regression model.