The Study Of The Dressing Culture Of Uighur

The Uighur tribe is an ancient race in Northern China, the ancestor of today's Uyghur and Yugur. In 8th century, the Uighurs began to found an independent powerful Khanate along the Orkhon River and make a great contribution to China to be a multinational country. The culture of Uighur has a long, vivid history. For the high value and status in the culture of Northern nation of China, it causes many scholars' concern. Dressing culture of Uighur is also an important part of it. Until now, it's not been studied systematically and there is no treatise specializing in it.There is a lot of information about costume and body decoration in the sculptures and frescoes found in Dunhuang. Based on the research of predecessor, ancient historical material and discovery in archaeology, this thesis will do a classifying study on the dressing culture of Uighur in systemic way according to the issued pictures of sulptures and frescoes found in Xingjiang and Donghong, from lateTang dynasties, Five dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, Song dynasty, Xia dynasty to Yuan dynasty. Hope it will contribute to the study of the dressing culture, even the history of the ancient minority.The thesis includes two parts:The first part sums up the dressing relique in Dunhuang and Xinjiang, classified by cave groups or sites. For example, Dunhuang will be classified as Uighur dressing of Mogao Caves, Uighur dressing of Yulin caves and Uighur dressing in XiQianfo caves. Each classification includes 3 parts: the introduction of history background of cave groups or sites, the list of Uighur dressing relique, and the analysis of some Uighur dressing.The second part includes 3 paragraphs. The first one is the study of Uighur men's dressing, classifying it into 12 types. The second one is the study of Uighur women's dressing, 6 types. The third part is accessories' study, including earring, headgear, dangling ornament worn by women and ornament pasted in the face by women, hair pin, combs. And it will study the material and value of the ornaments.The most obvious dressing feature of Uighur is their coronets, so the thesis will name the dressing categories after the type of the coronet. In the classifying study, we found: Uighur males mainly wear pao, with bottom reaching the calf or the ground. There are two types of pao. One is round neckline long robe, most in red with small posy pattern; the other is long robe with purfle at neckline, front center, the upper arm, sleeve opening and bottom line. The types of coronets are diversiform and unique. Among them, petal shape capuche, trifurcate coronet, fan shape coronet and peach shape coronet were worn by the people both in Xinjiang and Dunhuang, but capuche, round coronet and flower coronet were just worn by the people in Xinjiang. Capuche and round coronet were popular by the minority in western regions and middle of Asia. And the flower coronet is the origin of modern Uyghur coronet. And late Uighur men's dressing was much influenced by Mongolia dressing.Same as the men's, the types of Uighur women's dressing in Xinjiang are more than those in Dunhuang. The Uighur female Donors in the frescoes mostly wear peach shape coronets, but different in the time of Ganzhou Uighur and Shazhou Uighur. The early one wears asymmetric collar pao, particularly in Dunhuang. And the latter wears central opening pao. It can be found in the frescoes in Xinjiang. In the study of accessories, it's found the female donors in Duhuang wear dangling ornament, but not in Xinjiang. That means the Uighur females in Duhuang were influenced more by Han dressing, but the ones in Xinjiang were influenced by other minorities in western regions.