Study On The Traditional Textile Technique And Culture Of Zhuang Nationality

Textile technique is the most universal and widespread meanwhile possess distinctive ethnic features embodying the cultural diversity. It is widely found that the literature on textile history of Zhuang people focus on Zhuang brocade. Such articles place emphasis on decorative patterns while others focus on inheritance and protection. However, no comprehensive research has been reported on textile technique of Zhuang people.Firstly, as traditional handcraft, the textile technique of Zhuang nationality represents the development level of Southern minorities, so this research has great academic significance. Secondly, as an important part of the culture of Zhuang nationality, it is essential to recognize the continuity and integrity of ethnic culture and meet the needs of cultural diversity which has important historical significance. Thirdly, this research has important practical significance for protection and inheritance of traditional handcraft.Therefore, this study systematically analyzed textile technique of Zhuang people adopting analysis of historic documents and field study. Systematic collection and documentation about the textile technique of Zhuang people were carried out including taking full advantage of the archaeological excavations fruits and the collections of Guangxi Museum of Nationalities. The objectives of this research is not only to find the history of textile materials of zhuang anestors, the weaving process and the culture connotation, but also to explore the influences of textile technique and how to better inherit and protect the traditional handicraft.This paper is divided into seven chapters:Chapter ? is introduction. Firstly, the theoretical and practical significance was well exemplified in this paper. Secondly, it stated the present research by analyzing the relevant database documents. Thirdly, the important related domestic and abroad research were analyzed and commented. Finally, the scope of methods and objects in this research were determined.Chapter ? was focused on textile materials. This chapter collated the history of cultivation and weaving bast fiber, bamboo fiber, cotton and silk including the origin, variety and process in the different historical periods based on the historical documents and excavation records. The using of textile materials of Zhuang people is ancient, diversified, superior and unbalanced. In this chapter the characteristics of materials using were analyzed from environment, economic, policy and technology level.Chapter ? studied the weaving instruments. This chapter analyzed and classified existing looms of Zhuang by studying their shape and structure, working mechanism and operation method, and then compared them with the looms of Yao, Miao and Dong in Guangxi on the basis of field work, historical documents and image data. This research systematically analyzed and summarized the characteristics of looms including the looms classification, illustration of operation mechanism and structural parts, which enriched the development course of looms and weaving technique of southern ethnic people and deepen the research of the local textile history.Chapter ? focused on the dyeing and weaving technique. The traditional dyeing of Zhuang nationality is vegetation dyeing. This chapter reviewed the blue dyeing history, introduced the process and mechanism of indigo dyeing in detail and studied the dyeing technique of other colors as well as calendaring technique which highlighted the national features in material selection and working process. Each procedure of weaving was produced in the long practices by the weavers and was delivered to each other by ear and mouth. The chapter recorded and analyzed the process and mechanisms of weaving cloth and Zhuang brocade by pigcage loom and then further studied the fabric structure by lively and concrete weave diagram, looming drafting and denting drafting.Chapter ? studied the art features of Zhuang brocade. Zhuang brocade is the splendid material and spirit creation which stresses the culture features of Zhuang. Chapter ? classified the patterns by the contents, replenished the contents never mentioned and illustrated full and accurate on the basis of the collections of Guangxi museum of nationalities. Combining the Chinese context with local culture characteristics, the meanings of the patterns were expounded. Meanwhile the art features were extracted from shape, color, composition and expression.Chapter ? states the culture connotations of the patterns from the exhibition of belief and the traces of culture change. It embodied the persistence to the ethnic culture and the openness to other cultures. All the patterns reflected the worship to the origin of life, the concern to existence and pursuit for the better life.Chapter ? analyzed the predicament and the historial significance of the traditional textile technology. Then this chapter defined the culture space from museum to exert the protection from the“activation”,“simplification”,?integration?, ?commercialization? which the principles were universal and complementary.This research has some innovations as the followings:Firstly, it is the innovation of research view. This study expands and deepens the contents space. The systematic and comprehensive research on the textile technique of Zhuang nationality is studied from the textile material, dyeing and weaving technique, and the craft culture. Secondly it based the technique in a large social background to study the interaction by adopting the insights from sociology of technology.As analyzing the using of textile materials, the weaving function of textile materials is studied as well as the impact factors from the environment, economic, policy and technology level. Thirdly, this research does not only record the field work, but analyzed the weaving mechanisms from technological view. Fourthly, the craft culture was affected by the influence of the culture of Zhuang nationality and the communication of different ethnic groups. In the current circumstance, the museums have become the important part of public cultural service system which can enhance the culture confidence of the common people, promote the protection consciousness and activate the cultural heritage. Finally, this research discussed the protection of traditional handicraft from the view of museum.Secondly,methods in this research are creative. It this research, not only historic documents and field study are adopted, but also museum collections as huge advantages including the archaeological excavations and ethnic relics are used. This research make full use of the ethnic relics in different levels of Guangxi Museum of Nationalities. Guangxi Museum of Nationalities(GXMN) is a special museum of the ethnic culture with the largest exhibition area and fairly complete facilities in Guangxi. The collections can help us to get an comprehensive knowledge and make up the deficiency of the literature.Thirdly, the opinions are practical.The study put forward some opinions about the protection of traditional textile technique.The new conclusions have been made in the study as the follows:(1)On the basis of collating the history of cultivation and weaving of bast fiber, bamboo fiber, cotton and silk including the origin, variety and process in the different historical periods,the using features of textile materials of Zhuang people is concluded from the ancient, diversified, superior and unbalanced aspects. The characteristics of materials using were analyzed from environment, economic, policy and technology level.The systematic study clears out the development skeleton to establish the status of zhuang people in Chinese textile history and refutes the opinion that the Broussonetia papyrifera is the minor textile fiber of Joseph Needham.(2)The looms of Zhuang nationality are systematical studied and classified. According to their shape,the looms can be divided into two treads two healds loom, two treads multiple healds looms(Jingxi loom),two treads one heald bamboo cage patterns(Bamboo cage loom),two treads two healds ring patterns(Huanjiang loom) and one tread one heald bamboo ring patterns(Longzhou loom).And in this study, they are compared with the looms of Yao, Miao and Dong in Guangxi and such conclusions are as follow.Firstly, the looms of Zhuang, Yao, Miao and Dong in Guangxi are inclined to tie the weave beams to the waist by belt.At the same time they also have the complete frame.Secondly,the looms of Zhuang nationality prefer to adopt two healds, but the looms of Yao nationality,Miao nationality and Dong Nationality are inclined to have one heald. Thirdly there are differences in the working mechanism of the heald. The healds of Zhuang looms are interacted to have the more distinct fell. But the heald of the looms of Yao, Miao and Dong in Guangxi are operated independently. Finally, the looms in Zhuang nationality have the specialized brocade looms, but the Yao, Miao and Dong in Guangxi are still use the plain looms. The textile tools of Zhuang people have distinct local characteristics and represent the development level of southern ethnic people.(3)Zhuang brocade represents the textile technique of southern ethnic groups for the splendid material and spirit creation. The art features are extracted from the abstract shape, decorative color, procedure composition and symbol expression which realized the integration of the aesthetic and ideographical expression, form and content, spirit and material.(4)The culture connotations of Zhuang brocade are expressed the transfer from the utilitarianism to the sprit needs. Zhuang brocade embodies the insistence to the ethnic culture as well as the openness to other cultures. The constructive reconstruction by Zhuang people completes and updates their culture. During the reconstruction process, their culture developed, communicated and innovated.(5)With the increasing development, the museums have become the important part of public cultural service system. This research discusses the protection of traditional handicraft in the specialized cultural space and put forwards the ?activation?, ?simplification?, ?integration?, ?commercialization? which the principles are universal and complement each other. The ?activation? and ?simplification? can protect the intangible heritage effectively and develop more culture sharer. The traditional technology is flowing and dynamic and has close relation with common people. The ?integration? and the cultural products ?commercialization? can make the traditional technology be better inherited and protected.