| With the increasing of summer temperature around the globe in recent years,the maximum temperatures over 40? had stretched for days in many regions and countries.The human body will be sweating large amounts under such circumstance.If the sweat is stuck on the surface of human skin and can not release into the atmosphere in time,then some skin problems will be induced,such as clammy,stifling heat and scratchy felling.Whether the sweat can be smoothly release from human body,the most important external factor is the moisture transmission and perspiration performances of clothing.There are already a number of clothing which have moisture transmission and perspiration performances on the market,such as sportswear,sweatpants,T-shirt,underwear,western pants,competition clothing and etc.But the performances of these clothing and fabrics are obviously different owing to various processing.The testing standards and generic detection methods of moisture transmission and perspiration clothing are not enough and have lower discrimination,which can not take a comprehensive evaluation on the moisture transmission and perspiration performances of clothing.To solve the preceding problems,a novel fabrics moisture transmission and perspiration performances measuring method which can simulate actual wear was put forward.By the sensor technology and computer virtualization software,a new instrument based on the fundamentals principle of electric resistance was designed and manufactured.This instrument had a fast and accurate data collection function.Furthermore,the quantitative metrics of clothing moisture transmission and perspiration performances were put forward,including wicking rate and drying time.Then the yarn performances were analyzed,which is the major factor that affects the fabrics moisture transmission and perspiration performances.And the liquid transmission indexes of yarn were obtained.Finally,the principal component analysis method was used to calculate the weighting coefficients of the yarn and fabrics factors,which affect the moisture conductivity and perspiration performances of fabrics.And the fabrics comprehensive coefficients of moisture transmission and perspiration performances were calculated using multiple regress models.The following results had been drawn.(1)With computer automatic detection technology and the relationship of the sweat concentration in the fabrics vs the electric resistance value,a fabrics moisture transmission andperspiration performance measuring testing device and the related evaluation methods were constructed,which can indirectly tested the liquid drops diffusion and evaporation of fabrics.The resolution and reliability of the testing device was evaluated,and the results show the precision appropriate and repeatability of testing device is good and the differentiation on moisture transmission and perspiration fabrics is very high.(2)The liquid transmission performances of polyester staple yarns and filaments were tested and analyzed.The results indicate the rules of liquid transmission performances had differences in staple yarns and filaments.The staple yarns with higher porosity or thinner fineness have better liquid transmission performances,while the filaments with coarser fineness or lower twist have better liquid transmission performances.The influence of temperature on filaments and staple yarns are consistent,that is,higher temperature with higher liquid transmission rate.(3)By using automatic fabrics testing device,the moisture transmission and perspiration performances of Coolmax and Coolplus filament fabrics were tested and analyzed,respectively.The test data from automatic fabrics testing device were compared with the data of the traditional capillary effect method(moisture transmission)and weighing method(perspiration).The results indicate the automatic test device can accurately measure the drying time and wicking rate of sweat along 5 different directions of fabrics.The experimental errors with automatic fabrics testing device will be dramatically reduced as the testing device can avoid the multiple sampling and ambient changing in the labs by traditional methods.(4)The moisture transmission and perspiration properties of knitted fabrics were analyzed by the principal component analysis method(PCA).Seven basic parameters of knitted fabrics were contained in PCA,and these parameters include yarn properties,wales and courses density,total density,areal density,thickness and volume density.The results indicate that the most essential parameter which influences moisture transmission and perspiration properties of fabrics is yarn wicking properties,while the influence of areal density is the least.The difference of most fabrics moisture transmission properties can distinguish with PCA,even if the parameter of fabrics texture is missing.But there is a larger error for analyzing fabrics drying time by seven basic parameters of fabrics with PCA,which shows the other parameters,such as fabrics texture,air speed,environmental temperature and humidity,also are indispensable.The test method and device of fabrics moisture transmission and perspiration properties can improve the testing efficiency and the testing precision in fabrics dynamic measurementfield.Besides,this paper provides a new measurement and analysis method for textile performances and the measurement results can be used for design and development of moisture transmission and perspiration fabrics,which will further reduce garment processing waste because of subjective knowledge and mistakes.On the other hand,the virtual instrument testing system based on virtual instrument testing method in textile industry is promoted,which will meet the development requirements of informatization and automation in textiles field and promote the development of on-line technology. |
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