Study On The Structrue,Technology And Cultrue Of Warp Twisted Fabrics In Ancient China

The warp twisted fabrics in ancient China are unique and distinctive in style.In the long history of development,warp twisted fabrics have developed a diverse organizational structure and have undergone several major changes and transformations.Take Leno as a representative,the development of its organizational structure is closely related to the social development and technological evolution in the historical environment at that time.On the whole,warp twisted fabrics,warp twisting looms,weaving techniques and social forms form an organic as whole.The twisting of warp yarns makes the structure of the warp twisted fabric so complex,that makes the warp twisting loom and its weaving technology have unique technical content.Because of the difficulty of weaving,the ancient diversified warp twisted weaving techniques have only a small part of the inheritance in modern times.Therefore,both the technical and social cultural connotations carried by the fabric itself,or the inheritance and development of its skills in modern times,can be studied in depth.So far,there is no systematic research on ancient warp twisted fabric technology and culture in academia.The main research content of this article includes the first part—the historical development research of warp twisted fabrics,the second part—the research on the weaving technology of warp twisted fabrics and the third part—the development and application research of warp twisted fabrics,which are divided into nine chapters.The first chapter is the introduction.It focuses on the origin and research significance of the topic selected.The research scope of ancient Chinese warp twisted fabrics has been defined in terms of time and fabric histology.The relevant research results at home and abroad are carefully sorted out and reviewed.Clarified the research methods and content of this article.The second chapter analyzes the nomenclature of ancient and modern fabrics based on the fabric theory of warp twisted fabrics.A comparative study was made with the actual situation and pointed out the problems in the naming of warp twisted fabrics in ancient and modern times.Redefines the concept of warp twisted fabric,and proposes a systematic classification method for warp twisted fabric in ancient China on this basis.The first part contains Chapter 3 to Chapter 5,which is the study of structural changes and influencing factors of warp twisted fabrics in the historical development.Through the interpretation of a large number of archaeological reports and unearthed textiles,the structure of the ancient Chinese warp twisted fabric has been sorted out.According to the changes in the fabric structure,it can be divided into three stages—prehistoric to early Zhou Dynasty,the budding stage of the mixed warp twisted and knitted fabrics.The period from Zhou Dynasty to Sui and Tang Dynasty was the development and promotion stage,and the period from Song to Ming Dynasty was the transformation stage.Combining with the records of ancient documents and archaeological data,we have respectively excavated the characteristics of fabric changes at these key historical points,discussed the important position of warp twisted fabrics in the origin of textiles during the prehistoric origin period,and the internal and external development of fabric structure and pattern development during the Han and Tang Dynasties,and the social choice orientation of the overall technological transformation during the Song and Ming Dynasties.For the Jin and Yuan period with special fabric styles,we discussed the integration and innovation of warp twisted fabrics under its social duality.Using experimental analysis methods,we restored and interpreted the unique structural characteristics of even-numbered weft warp twisted fabrics in the Yuan Dynasty.The second part contains Chapter 6 and Chapter 7,which is a research on the restoration of warp twisting weaving tools and techniques in history.Based on the specific weaving production process,combined with the weaving process of warp twisted fabric mentioned in "Tiangong Kaiwu" of the Ming Dynasty,the special process required for warp twisted fabric is reviewed.Integrating ancient images,documents and restoring loom information,we propose the shape changes and weaving methods of warp twisting looms in the origin and development stage,as well as the warp twisting methods of different shapes of twist heddles.The typical fabric structure was technically restored based on historical production conditions,and the development law of warp weaving technology was discussed from two aspects: the development of loom manufacturing technology and the feedback of social needs..The third part contains Chapter 8 and Chapter 9,which are the development research on the non-genetic inheritance of warp twisted fabrics and ancient and modern applications.Through field investigation and comparative analysis,the current situation of the inheritance of the three intangible cultural heritages of Hangzhou Leno,Four-end Leno and Jacquard Leno weaving techniques in Jiangsu and Zhejiang regions was investigated,and the historical reasons for inheritance and differentiation have been discussed in detail.On the basis of document sorting,we excavate the cultural connotation of ancient Chinese warp twisted fabric in various ways such as clothing,politics,economy,and communication,and propose the inheritance and development direction of warp twisted fabric from the perspective of the overall intangible cultural environment.Through the discussions above,we have completed a comprehensive study of ancient Chinese warp twisted fabrics,resolved a series of blank points and disputes in previous studies,and reached the following innovative conclusions:1.In view of the problems in the naming of ancient warp twisted fabrics,we compared the theory of fabric histology and actual naming,and redefines the concept of warp twisted fabrics.On this basis,we divided the ancient Chinese warp twisted fabric system into two types without a fixed twist and three types with a fixed twist.2.The important position of warp twisted fabric in the origin of fabric and its weaving technology has not received due attention.Through data comparison and technical research,we discussed that warp twisted fabrics played an indispensable role in technical transition in the origin of textiles.3.There are disputes in the academic circles about the time of the fading transition of the warp twisted fabric.Based on the comparative analysis of archaeological data and ancient documents,we evaluated the development status of Song and Ming warp twisted fabrics and looms.Based on the SST theory,we clarified the dynamic mechanism between the technological transformation of warp twisted fabrics in the Song and Ming Dynasties and society.4.The development and innovation of warp twisted fabrics are inseparable from the influence of society.On the basis of comprehensively summarizing the material innovation,style innovation and structure innovation of warp twisted fabrics in the Jin and Yuan period,we have studied the special structure of even-numbered weft warp twisted fabrics in Yuan Dynasty through experimental restoration and other methods.From the perspective of social duality,we analyzed the influence of the coexistence of northern minority regimes and Han culture on the development of warp twisted fabrics during the Jin and Yuan Dynasties.5.The ancient literature and materials lack systematic records of warp looms.So far,the related research in the academic circle has not been systematic.This is related to the structure and principle of warp looms.We have sorted out the twisted warp loom according to the two stages of origin and development,and comprehensively compared various types of twisting heddles and their functions.Combined with the corresponding twisting methods,the weaving techniques of several typical twisted warp fabrics in ancient China were technically restored,and the development law of twisted warp fabrics technology was discussed.6.The existing research on inheritance and development focuses on Hangzhou Leno weaving techniques,which is very narrow.Through investigations in Jiangsu and Zhejiang regions,we have comparatively studied the three types of warp weaving techniques under non-genetic inheritance of Hangzhou Leno,Four-end Leno and Jacquard Leno,and discussed in detail the historical reasons for the differentiation of inherited techniques.From the perspective of the whole intangible heritage ecology of warp twisted fabrics,the future development ideas of fabric inheritance are proposed.