Study On Natural Emulsifier For Cosmetic

The extracted phosphatidylcholine from soybean phospholipds and modified phosphatidylcholine with phospholipaseA2 .Tested modified products emulsifying properties and reseached on the preparation of vitminC liposome made by soybean phospholipids.Phosphatidylcholine was extracted from soybean phospholipds and alcohol,ethyl actate,isopropanol as optimal sovent and inorganic salt precipitate method respectuvely. The optimal conditions of the extract were: alchohol as extract solvent and its valume was 4 times to the soybean phospholipds weight at 45(±1)℃for 6 times. The phosphatidylcholine concentration could reach above 45% and the yield could reach above 80%.Phosphatidylcholine was modified by phospholipaseA2. The optimal conditions: the temperature was 38(±1)℃,the time of the hydrolysis was 7h, the concentration of PLA2 was 100IU/mL, the concentration of calcium was 0.025mol/mL,the value of tris-HCl buffers wais 8.50. The acidity of the hydrolysis in this situation was 55.03,the rate of hydrolysis was 87.6%-94.0%.Gain the value of Rf of each ingredient by TLC, the Rf value of each ingredient was 0.90,0.56,0.32. Separated the products of the hydrolysis by silica gel columchromatography and used gradient elution for separation. Changed the proportion of chloroform / methanol 1∶1 to 1∶2, and then to 1∶4 ,untill only used the methanol as eluant.The content of lysophospholipid gained 67.52% .Lysophospholipids HLB value sas tested by R.K.Gupta method was 9 and improved 50% than lecithin. The emulsifying stability of lysophospholipids was nearly the same as other emulsifier ,like AEO.To optimize the preparation formulation of vitamin C liposomes. The liposomes were prepared by film dispersion-ultrasonic emulsify method. Taking entrapment efficiency as index, and designing an orthogonal experiment. The optimal formulation were: phosphatidylcholine / cholesterin / vitamin E (molar ratio)4:2:0.34; vitamin C concentration :3.3mg/mL;PBS buffer pH value:7.93;chloroform for film forming :25 mL. Under the formulation the entrapment efficiency was 58.32%. The structure of liposome was observed under the scan electronic microscope. The main diameter of the liposome particles was 310 nm. The stability of vitaminC was improved after entraped by phosphatidylcholine.