Research On Garment Pattern Of Cutters Pratical Guide Which Was Wrote By Bukchen

Grate changes had happened in China during Llater-Qing Dynasty and Republic of China. Traditional Chinese culture had been undertaking an ever fierce conflict against that of western hemisphere, which also brought great changes to Chinese garments. This period was an important stage for westernization of Chinese garments. The garments that had been effected by the western fashion included: suit, campus wear, Chinese tunic suit, men's suit and military uniform of men's clothing;Cheong-sam, coat skirt and fashion of women's clothing, and children's clothing.Followed along with the penetration of western garment, the western technology of cut-out also penetrated through China, and guided the Chinese fashion's modernization. So it could be said that Republic of China was a period when the western apparel pattern which laid the foundation for the development of modern Chinese apparel patterns started in China. So it would be useful for us to understand the development process of Chinese fashion distinctly, through the research on the apparel pattern of Republic of China.This article regarded the book Cutters Pratical Guide which wroted by Bok Chen and extant and published in 1930s as the research object and analyzed the measuring instrument and measuring method used at that time in detail. Also the article selected 9 garment styles that representative including suit, waist-coat, western-style trousers, new over coat for ladies, new cloak for ladies, skirt, Cheong-sam, girl skirt, children's coat, and analyzed and researched on their style trails and graphing respectively, and to summarize the formulas. At last, the style trials and graphing of men's clothing, women's clothing and children's clothing were contrasted and analyzed, and the law of pattern making in Cutters Pratical Guide were found out.It were found that the proportion method had been used in the technology of apparel pattern making at that time, and the chest measure decided all the other measures. It could be found that proportion of body had been realized and used in garment pattern at Republic of China, but the difference of body proportion between the person of different sex ,ages had not been took into account, so the cut-out method at that time had certain limitations of body-fitted.