Research On The Optimization Of Basic Bra Pattern Design

Women's concerns are gradually changing from coat to underwear with the development of the economy, the enhancement of aesthetic sense and the shift of dressing concept.Bra supports,protects and beautifies breast as a typical representative of underwear. It becomes an indispensable part of fashionable women's lives.Bra pattern design based on the shape of the female breast is of great significance for functional realization. It is the core of the bra design and production. The optimization of existing bra pattern technology is deeply studied in order to meet the bra production and development.It is an urgent demand to explore a systematic,simple and practical bra pattern which fits Chinese women.In this paper it focused on the research about the optimization of basic bra pattern.The underwear market condition and the operation process of bra pattern design were acquired through market research.It provided reference for the research on the optimization of basic bra pattern design.The analysis of the human body characteristics was the key to improve the fitness of the basic bra pattern. In accordance with the ergonomic principles,18818 to 25-year-old subjects were measured by tools such as Martin in this study. Their upper body was nude to get the static size of chest. The five factors(breast-circumference factor, breast-positioning factor, breast-directional factor, breast-deep factor, breast-shape factor) that reflected the shape characteristics of female's breast were determined by the SPSS factor analysis.The five parameters (chest circumference, the distance between mid-shoulder point and bust point, the distance between bust points,the difference between upper-chest and under-chest, bust outline length) that were necessary for basic bra pattern design were rationally extracted by Pearson correlation analysis.Multiple linear regression models between detailed parameters and characteristic parameters were established by the regression analysis, which used some known characteristic parameters such as chest circumference and the difference between upper-chest and under-chest to reflect other detailed parameters.It provided a theoretical basis for the optimization of basic bra pattern.Meanwhile, the female's breast shape of different cup was depicted, that was,the value of characteristic parameters changed along with the cup,the detailed parameters such as breast angle also changed.According to the analysis of the female's chest shape, the ideal breast model was argued, optimized and established on the basis of the previous research. Its upper was 1/2 cone and the under was two 1/8 ellipsoids.Then the volume of bra cup dart was derived. It solved the key technology of basic bra pattern design. Based on the research and comparison of the existing bra pattern design,it focused on the analysis of five basic bra patterns.Their advantages and problems were extracted. The corresponding relationship between the breast characteristic parameters and basic bra pattern parameters was established.The basic bra pattern, especially in chest capacity, volume of dart and detailed parameters,was optimized. It made up for the shortcomings of the original method.It focused on changing the structure of cup on the basis of optimized pattern.Dart manipulation was used to design bra common style, such as single-dart bra, vertical bra, horizontal bra and "T" bra.After precise tailoring and sewing,4 types of bra were tested by the three-dimensional virtual fitting, mannequin fitting and body fitting.The result was that they fit very well and "T" bra was the best of all.Therefore, there was good fitness of basic bra pattern that optimized.The corresponding relationship was established between the breast characteristic parameters and basic bra pattern parameters.It provided a scientific and practical method for basic bra pattern design.