Development And Performance Investigation Of Linen/Cotton Knitted Fabric

In recent years, with the improvement of the people’s life and the advancement of the textile industry technology, we require a better performance of the apparel’s comfort and health care function. Linen fiber has earned the title "Queen of Fiber", and the fabrics has excellent properties, such as moisture absorbency, air permeability, not sticky, natural, health-cared, anti-sepsis, anti-bacteria, anti-static, anti-ultraviolet and so on. So they are admired by the foreign and domestic customers, and have become one of the most popular textile products in the international market.In this thesis, the author studied knit-ability of linen/cotton blended yams and processing of linen/cotton knitted fabrics with two different finenesses blended yams. Especially the research of thermal-wet comfort property and wearing performance of different linen knitted fabrics were made.In order to ensure the smoothness of the research, the following technical routine is drawn up:Exploration of the linen/cotton blended yams’ performancesâ†'Knittingâ†'Scouring and bleachingâ†'Mercerizingâ†'Cellulose enzyme treatmentâ†'Investigation of thermal-wet comfort propertyâ†'Investigation of wearing performance.Firstly, the author analyzed the performances of linen/cotton yarn and found that it had good softness and evenness, and could meet the demand of knitting after trial run, so it was unnecessary to pre-treatment the yarns before knitting.For removing the impurity accreted to the flax such as pectin, lignin and improving the treating effects, the single-stage sourcing-bleaching technology by mixing NaOH and H2O2is adopted. This technology is beneficial to shortening the flow, enhancing the productivity and reducing the cost.Mercerizing treatment is adopted to improve the dyeing rate and dimensional stability of linen/cotton knitted fabrics. In order to find the optimum technology of mercerizing treatment and effect, orthogonal test is taken with three factors:the concentration of NaOH, time and tension, three levels for each factor are chosen in the test. The strength decrement, shrinkage, absorption value of Ba and bending rigidity of linen/cotton knitted fabrics are tested and calculated, and then the optimum conditions of mercerizing treatment are obtained through variance analysis of the strength decrement, shrinkage, absorption value of Ba and bending rigidity.Neutral cellulose enzyme treatment is adopted to eliminate fluff of linen/cotton knitted fabrics, improve their softness and pilling and lower the scratchiness. In order to find the optimum technology of neutral cellulose enzyme treatment and effect, orthogonal test is taken with four factors:the dosage of cellulose enzyme, time, pH value and temperature, four levels for each factor are chosen in the test. The weight loss, strength decrement, drape coefficient and bending rigidity of linen/cotton knitted fabrics are measured and calculated, and then the optimum conditions of neutral cellulose enzyme treatment are obtained through variance analysis of the weight loss, strength decrement, drape coefficient and bending rigidity.At last, the thermal-wet comfort properties and wearing performances of linen/cotton knitted fabrics are tested and analyzed, and the comprehensive evaluations of different linen/cotton knitted fabrics are produced by fuzzy comprehensive evaluation.