Study On Processing And Properties Of Line And Linen Tow Knitted Fabric

The 21^st century is a "green century",in which "green products" will lead the fashion,and it's a new trend advocating both elegant external image and internal health care function.Flax is famous as "Queen of Fiber",and linen fabrics,greatly favored by people,are one of the most popular textiles in the international market because of its excellent properties,such as moisture absorption,permeability,firm,anti-sepsis,anti-bacteria, anti-static,anti-ultraviolet and so on.In this thesis,we study knit-ability of linen yarn and processing of linen knitted fabrics with two different materials,line yarn and linen tow yarn.Especially we make a research of thermal-wet comfort and wearability of different linen knitted fabrics.In order to make the research go on smoothly,we develop the following technical route:Study of linen yarn's performances→Pre-treatment of linen yam→Knitting→Scouring and bleaching →Cellulose enzyme treatment→Study of thermal-wet comfort→Study of wearability.Firstly,we analyze the performances of linen yam and find that it's hard and low-stretchy,so pre-treatment to linen yam is essential,which can reduce its bending rigidity to meet the demand of knitting.Secondly,considering the performances of selected raw materials and the equipment available at the same time,double-yam plain and rib fabrics are produced on computerized flat knitting machine,and the knitting parameters are confirmed through repeated experiments.Thirdly,the single-stage scouring-bleaching technology is adopted to remove the impurity accreted to the flax such as pectin,lignin and so on.The technology is beneficial to shortening the flow,enhancing the productivity and reducing the cost.Fourthly,neutral cellulose enzyme treatment is adopted to eliminate fluff of linen fabrics,improve their softness and lower the scratchiness. In order to find the optimum technology of neutral cellulose enzyme treatment and grasp the influence of processing conditions on cellulose enzyme treatment effect,orthogonal test is taken with four factors:the dosage of cellulose enzyme,temperature,pH value and time,four levels for each factor are chosen in the test.The weight loss,strength decrement and bending rigidity of linen knitted fabrics are calculated, then the optimum conditions of neutral cellulose enzyme treatment are obtained through variance analysis of the weight loss,strength decrement and bending rigidity.At last,the thermal-wet comfort and wearability of linen knitted fabrics are tested and analyzed,and the comprehensive evaluations of different linen knitted fabrics are produced by grey clustering and fuzzy comprehensive evaluation.