The Study Of Bi-Functional Groups Reactive Dyes On The Dyeing Properties And Application Propertities Of Wool Fabric

As a kind of natural protein fiber, wool is popular because of its excellent properties, such as:superior handle, good hygroscopicity and elasticity, high gas permeability, great warmth retention property, aright comfort, unique tailoring effect and so on. With the higher requirement to garment materials among the public, dyeing of wool fabric is always being a key research in the wool textile industry.There are many types of dyes can be used to wool, acid dyes, mordant dyes, and reactive dyes are the most common ones. However, wool dyeing with acid dyes and mordant dyes is limited because of the following disadvantages of them. To the acid dyes, the wet fastness of dyed wool is poor, and the dyeing process is time-consuming; to the mordant dyes, the dyed wool displays dull appearance, and the chromium ions used as mordant is harmful to the environment. Therefore, wool dyeing with reactive dyes attaches more importance. Nowadays, the enterprises dye wool with wool reactive dyes mostly, which can obtain good dyeing effects because it can bond with wool fiber through nucleophilic substitution reaction and nucleophilic addition reaction.But the market share of wool reactive dyes is small,and the price of which is high. It is reported that in China, the cotton reactive dyes,with fast development and complete kinds, the price of which is about half of the wool reactive dyes. Besides,Wool is often dyed in boiling condition due to its unique cuticles layer on the surface, not only does that waste energy,but also yellows the fabric and weakens the handle. So it is of great significance to save cost and reduce energy consumption of wool dyeing by developing the substitute of wool reactive dyes and studying the low temperature dyeing technique.In this paper, in order to chose a proper kind of reactive dyes to replace wool reactive dyes, the dyeing effects of wool with three kinds of bi-functional cotton reactive dyes is compared with wool reactive dyes. The results show that the cotton reactive dye with bi-vinyl sulphone is desirable to wool dyeing,since it can achieve a similar dyeing process and effect to the wool reactive dye with a-bromo-acrylamide.To explore the feasibility that wool fabric can be dyed with bi-vinyl sulphone reactive dyes under low temperature,the wool fabric is first modified by the reducing agents, and then dyed in85℃by bi-vinyl sulphone reactive dyes and wool reactive dyes with a-bromo-acrylamide respectively. The results show that the dyeing effects of wool after modification under low temperature is similar to the boiling condition, and the breaking strength retention after modification is increased by1.5percent.It is also studied that the improved properties of dyed wool under low temperature by glutamine transaminase (TG enzyme) treatment. The absorbance of soaping residual liquid of wool fabric is taken as the standard, through the single factor experiment, it shows that the optimum glutamine transaminase treatment condition is as following:pH7.0, temperature50℃,dosage25(o.w.f)%, and time lho On this basis,15(o.w.f)%gelatin is added, the soaping fastness of dyed fabric can be achieved to0.5-1levels higher than the original samples.what’s more,under the catalytic effect of TG enzyme, the graft crosslinking can reaction between gelatin and wool fiber, which can improve the anti-felting performance,thermal stability and breaking strength of wool fabric.