Study On Textiles Of Various Dynasties Unearthed In Southern China

Jinzhou, an important strategic city, has been built as capital by34emperors. In regimeMing, there are three autonomic regions in Jiangxi province: Ning Xian Wang named Zhu Quan,Huai Jin Wang named Zhu Zhanao, Yi Duan Wang named Zhu Youbing. Due to specialgeographical position, numbers of large burials have been found in southern China. This papermakes study on textiles unearthed at southern China from different years, taking Jinzhou ChuTomb and Nanchang Wu Tomb for examples.Now, studies on fabric antique only focuses on the fabric unearthed from the lonely tomb.These studies use contemporary silk to simulate aging. Analysis and study on two batch offabric antique from different years which have thousands of gap are scarce. This paperinvestigates the difference on variety, appearance feature, organization structure and ageddegradation, based on the fabric unearthed from Jinzhou Chu Tomb and Nanchang Wu Tomb.Method about sectioning, crude material, process of manufacturing about silk string fromJinzhou Chu Tomb are also studied, providing some reference for the follow-up antiqueprotection.First, after the test about the fabric variety, the raw material from Jinzhou Chu Tomb ismulberry silk, and the other one from Nanchang Wu Tomb is mulberry silk and cotton fiber.Mathematical statistics method is employed to study the appearance feature of the mulberry silkunearthed from the two tombs. It is found that cross section of mulberry silk from Jinzhou ChuTomb has round long triangle appearance feature, while cross section of mulberry silk fromNanchang Wu Tomb has the appearance between round long triangle and round triangle.Second, large amounts of observation on the fabric from the two tombs have been done byoptic microscope. It is found that the silk fabric from Jinzhou Chu Tomb mainly includes plaincloth, the jin fabric and qi, while the organization structure of fabric from Nanchang Wu Tombmainly includes: plain cloth, twill, satin, and ghatpot, leno, dark flower satin, cindai, figuredsatin such as silk damask.Comparison between cotton fiber from Nanchang Wu Tomb and contemporary cotton fiber on FTIR and XRD has been made. Because of the stability of oxygen s ix-ring structure, there islittle difference between the two fiber on FTIR and the unearthed fabric has no serious ageddegradation, but with slightly reduce on crystallinity.On the other side, with the study on the unearthed silk string, it is found that theimprovement Ha method of sectioning is best. The material of unearthed silk string is the finestmulberry silk. Unearthed silk string forms by added S-twist raw silk whose reeling grain numberis between11and21, and then4shares by enhancing and combining to form a Z-twist thread.At last, micro-analysis, infrared analysis, XRD analysis, TG analysis and amino acidanalysis are used to study the aged degradation of the two unearthed fabric. The analyses showsthat the fabric from Jinzhou Chu Tomb is more serious than Nanchang Wu Tomb on the ageddegradation and has low crystallinity and heat resistance of silk fiber. It is also convinced thatthere is more degradation of amino-acid and less vestigial quantity in older fabric. There arecorrelation between some amino-acid in amorphous and the fabric age such as valine andtyrosine.This paper has the highlight that the variety identifying and aged investigation about twobatches of fabric which have thousands of years gap are done, providing the theory reference forthe succeed fabric antique protection.