Study On The Precess Of The Late Qing Dynasty And The Early Years Of The Republic Of Horse Face Skirt

In this paper, actual measurement of Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology national costumemuseum Mamian skirt based on income, a large number of first-hand data for analysis, theMamian skirt style, technology, decoration and evolution are studied. Which focuses on Mamianskirt making process is analyzed. The process includes the whole process from design to finishedproduct, including the original idea, material selection, production etc.. Through the research, theoverall design, material selection, the Mamian skirt cut suture method, decorative pattern isflexible, but mostly to ensure Mamian skirt practical value as the premise.A flat rectangular skirt door Mamian skirt around, so that the wearer stand dignified tall andstraight, seating is not easy to crumple dress; dress on both sides of a dense pleat or to cut piecestogether, sharing the body facing side turning angle, make Mamian skirt from the front to theside of natural transition, appreciation from various angles to achieve stereo effect.Mamian skirt fabric is selected according to different functional fabric characteristics andMamian skirt parts requirements. Silk fabric soft easy pleated type, used for satin fabric pleatedskirt; relative stiffness and good gloss, commonly used in the skirt.Mamian skirt decorative patterns according to the design of dress styles and jacket. And thehorse gate patterns vary with the height of the skirt hem coat varies in length, shorter coat hem,Mamian skirt door height, skirt upper coat covered parts not for decoration. The embroidery andother manual labor has been the most effective use of.The cut and sew Mamian skirt fully reflects the ancient clothing production artists wisdom. Inthe research on the skirt, the skirt side cut pieces of fabric yarn direction and floral patterndirection as the breakthrough point, combined with the practice of restoration experiment,summed up the skirt fabric cutting method to use maximum. The skirt slit head outward sutureand the Satin Edge combining, effectively avoids the edges out of silk, add functionality on thedress wear. In the study of pleated skirt when making process, according to the relation betweenthe pleat folds and thread direction as the breakthrough point, analyzes from three aspects ofcutting, folding and the overall shape of skirt, studies show that skirt through special pleated canreach accord with human body effect.