Research On The Pattern Of Multi Slice Helical Skirt

Bias Cut is a kind of cutting technology with a special angle between the fabric weft directionand the vertical direction, the largest stressed direction and the often stressed direction ofgarments. Compared with straight cutting technology, bias cut has an asymmetric dynamic biassegmentation, making an elegant and smooth appearance, contributing to comfortable tensionlesswearing. After introduction in2004,specialists have concluded a standard bias-cut pattern makingmethods, which gave no systemic explanation for the equation of some parts. This skill is notconductive to parameterized application and needs improving in precision.This paper first makes30bias-cut skirts with different pieces and angles in grey fabric.Secondly, study the relationship among pieces, angles and length on the foundation ofcorrelation,variance and geometric analysis. Accordingly, a new basic patterning is raisedup.Further,10materials(cotton, flax and silk) are tested. With these cotton skirts in the same size,the relationship of material,actual skirt length is put forward.All lay a good foundation forfollowing serious bias-cut skirt pattern making research, taking material into consideration..Main study and results:1）Using Lectra CAD software to draw30patterns with the same size, but different anglesand pieces. Sewing these30skirts with Japanese JANOME MC11000digital sewing machine inthe same way. Finding out the relationship among angles, pieces and skirt length line on the SPSSanalysis of variance and correlation analysis。2）By geometric analysis and mathematical induction, finding out quantitative relationsamong angles, pieces and skirt length.Based of the above,the base bias skirt structure drawingused in this topic excluded material parameter is put forward.3）Combining with the existing literature, the influence of the bias skirt profile fabricperformance is determined as drapability, tear strength, and bending performance. Identify fourdifferent structure and density of the pure cotton fabrics, drawing according to the basic method tomake unified specification bias skirt. Measurement of warp density of fabric, drape, tear strength and bending properties, combined with the finished dress size of key parts, the regression relationamong the fabric performance,the actual skirt length and drawing skirt length is obtained by SPSSsoftware.4）Based on the existing model structure and optimized model structure diagrams,two skirtswith the same material and size are made. Choose five standard figures of160/84A as testers, thestatic beauty and dynamic comfort are subjectively evaluated. through SPSS paired samples moreKendall coefficient test method of effectiveness evaluation and the evaluation results wereanalyzed. There is a verify that the skirt of the optimized structure mapping method is reasonable,and has a certain potential replication.On the basis of the existing bias-cut skirt pattern making methods, this paper introduce theconcept of the shortest distance edge to help identify the position of the long skirt. Combinedwith mathematical induction certificate to angles as well as pieces has significant influence onlong skirt location. Discuss the fabric performance, and let material join in structure drawingdecision. This topic provides a reference in bias-cut skirt structure mapping study and has certaintheory and practical application value.