Study Of Bioactive Ingredient From Evening Primrose Seed Meal And Its Application In Cosmetics

In this paper, bioactive ingredients were extracted from evening primrose seed meal using antioxidant activity as an index. Extraction, separation, purification and identification of antioxidant ingredients were investigated. The purified extracts were added to cosmetics to explore its efficacy in terms of anti-aging、sunscreen and whitening. The main contents were as follows:(1)The extraction efficiency of different methods were investigated with indication of DPPH? scavenging rate by each crude extract. Results showed that the IC50 values on DPPH?scavenging of extracts which were extracted by Water-bath Reflux Extraction、Ultrasonic-assisted Extraction、Microwave-assisted Extraction and Cloud Point Extraction were 0.142 mg/m L、0.059 mg/m L、0.110 mg/mL and 0.124 mg/m L respectively. The crude extracts by Ultrasonic-assisted Extraction showed the best activity of DPPH? scavenging.(2)Single factor experiment and orthogonal experiment were carried out to optimize the extraction conditions of total polyphenols and total flavonoids. The average yield of total polyphenols was 6.72% and the RSD was 2.08% under the optimized condition which was 80% of ethanol concentration(V/V), pH 3, 1:30 of solid to liquid ratio, 0.2% of SH addition, 40 oC of extraction temperature and 60 min of extraction time. The average yield of total flavonoids was 6.72% and the RSD was 2.08% under the optimized condition which was 80% of ethanol concentration(V/V), 1:25 of solid to liquid ratio, 30 oC of extraction temperature and 60 min of extraction time. The IC50 value on DPPH? scavenging of total polyphenol extracts under the optimized extraction condition was 86.04 mg/m L. The IC50 value on DPPH? scavenging of total flavonoid extracts under the optimized extraction condition was 40.59 mg/m L. The antioxidant activity of total flavonoid extracts was higher than total polyphenol extracts. And it is 31.20% higher than that of un-optimized extraction condition.(3)The total flavonoid crude extracts of evening primrose seed meal were separated by Liquid-liquid Solvent Extraction, Polyamide Column Chromatography with the scavenging rate of DPPH? 、O2-? 、?OH and total reducing power as indicator. Fraction C was separated by Polyamide Column Chromatography from ethyl acetate enrichment. At concentration of 0.09 mg/m L, scavenging rate of fraction C on DPPH?, O2-? and ?OH was 85.90%, 82.01% and 80.03% which were 11.79%, 29.35% and 21.98% higher than ethyl acetate enrichment. And the total reducing power increased with a rise of 9.53% on unpurified enrichment. Fraction C was further purified by Silica Gel Column Chromatography and Sephadex LH-20 Gel Column Chromatography. Finally, two compounds were isolated and identified as quercetin and kaempferol by UV, MS, NMR.(4)The application of evening primrose seed meal extracts in cosmetics was studied. The extract was added into skin care cream by formula and process research. The sensory index and physicochemical properties of formula product were detected and were found to meet the occupation criterion. The effect of addition of evening primrose seed meal extract on the efficacy of anti-aging, sunscreen and whitening were investigated. The results showed that skin elasticity was significantly improved after in-vivo test for two weeks. The formula cream had an intermediate protective effect against UVB and a certain protective effect against UVA. And the formula cream also showed a certain effect of whitening in-vivo and in-vitro test.