Study On Wrap Spinning To Reduce Hairiness And Scratchiness Of Ramie Fabrics

The ramie fabric has excellent moisture permeability, air permeability and good crispness performance, but the the ramie fabric also has strong scratchiness, because of the coarseness and high rigidity of fibers, which limits the development of ramie in apparel field. Considering the scratchiness is caused by the the yarn hairiness, the hollow spindle wrap spinning technology is used in this study to reduce the hairiness of ramie yarn and scratchiness of fabric, with the ramie yarn as the core yarn and filament as the wrapper.The influence of twist on the performance of wrapped ramie yarn is discussed. With the increases of the wrapped twist, the hairiness of both single and double wrapped yarn decreases sharply and then levels off gradually. When there are a few twists, the effect of the double wrapping is better than the single. And if the twists increase to some extend, the effect of the both on hairiness tends to be the same.In addition, warping helps to improve the evenness of the yarn. The double is better than the single. But warping will decrease the strength. The more twists, the lower strength and the double decreases more than the single.To investigate whether the fineness of core yarn will influence the wrapping control, 36 Nm and 48 Nm ramie yarn and nylon filament are used in this experiment. The result demonstrates that both single and double wrapped yarn, there is no significantly difference in hairiness control of the two kinds ramie yarn.20D and 70 D nylon filament are used respectively as the wrapper with ramie yarn as the core yarn, to discuss whether the fineness of wrapper will influence the wrapping control. The result shows that the hairiness control of 70 D nylon filament is better than that of 20 D nylon filament.Sirofil and plied yarn are compared with wrapped yarn. The results show that the three composite yarns all can significantly reduce the hairiness of ramie yarn, with about 50% drop of Sirofil yarn and more drop rate of plied and wrapped yarn. The more twist, the fewer hairiness of plied yarn.But excessive twist will make the yarn structure unstable, prone to kinking.In conclusion, to reduce yarn hairiness, wrapped yarn is the best, and then plied yarn, Sirofil yarn is the last.plied yarn has higher strength than ramie yarn, while wrapped and Sirofil yarn are lower than ramie yarn. The three composite yarns all can improve the evenness of ramie yarn, and the evenness of plied and wrapped yarn is the same, better than Sirofil yarn.The performances of the fabrics,with the wrapped yarn as weft, such as the scratchiness,wear resistance, crease resistance, softness, drape and warmth, are improved, while the moisturepermeability and air permeability are not as good as ramie fabric. And the fabrics with composite yarn(wrapped yarn, plied yarn or Sirofil yarn), scratchiness, wear resistance, crease resistance,softness, drape and warmth are all improved. Wrapped yarn fabric has the best moisture air permeability and the slightest scratchiness and the fabric of plied yarn has the best wear resistance,softness and warmth.