| Proanthocyanidins are a class of polyphenol compounds polymerized from flavan-3-ols or flavan-3,4-diols,with special antioxidant activity.They have been applied in the fields of medicine,food,daily chemical industry,which had characteristic absorption peak around 280nm in UVB(280?320nm),and the grape seed proanthocyanidin extracts have the potential to be developed into a plant sunscreen.SPF value is a specific standard for effects of suncreens.We compared several SPF determination methods and choosed the in-vitro ultraviolet spectrophotometric method to determine the SPF of grape seed procyanidin extracts,and then determine the additive amount.According to sunscreen cream preparation process,we choosed appropriate quipment and technological process.Based on the sunscreen lotion formulation design principles,we selected the appropriate substrate material to design formula.Subsequently,Box-Behnken experimental design combining with response surface modeling(RSM)was employed to find the experiment parameters for preparing a sunscreen.We evaluated the quality of the finished sunscreen sample in accordance with the national standard,and tested anti-UV efficacy and moisturizing efficacy compared with commercial products.At the end evaluated the whitening,anti-aging effect of finished product.The results are as follows:1.The optimal extraction conditions are found to be 14 min of extraction at 70 ? with 70%ethanol/water mixture(v/v)at 1100psi.Under these conditions,the extraction rate of PAs and purity are 71.62mg/g and 41.53%respectively.2.The SPF of 1000?g/mL proanthocyanidins extract alchoholic solution is 24.7556±0.7599,which confirmed the anti-ultraviolet activity of GSPE;There is a significant positive correlation between GSPE anti-uv activity and mass concentration within a certain range from 10?1000 ?g/mL.3.Response surface modeling(RSM)result:Y= +257.17040-12.68675A-28.29520B-2.20050C +0.25325AB+0.54925AC-0.50825BC+0.45457A2+1.05957B2+0.39458C2 The model is significant;The lost item is not significant;among them A very significant,B,C,B2 is remarkable.Recommended optimal process scheme is oil phase 9.00%,HLB13.53,homogeneous time 5.24min.The predictive mean volume diameter is10.9538?m,and the actual value is 10.493p.m.The formula is:Phase A:grape seed oil 1.50%,white petrolatum0.50%,lanolin0.50%,stearic acid3.50%,twain-80 1.20%,glycerol monostearate 0.15%,glycerol 5.00%.Phase B:methyl p-hydroxybenzoate,p-hydroxy benzoic acid propyl ester 0.05%,0.10%EDTA disodium,deionized water,0.05%and 83.45%,phase C 0.1g/mLprocyanidins solution 1.00mL.4.The sunscreen cream is O/W type.The paste is exquisite,uniform and color is lotus pink.pH5.52±0.14.It has passed heat resistance test,cool resistance test and centrifugal test.The total bacterial count was consistent with the national standard.5.Efficacy evaluation results:Result of national standard tape method is 1.2584±0.0957.to SPF value measured by ultraviolet spectrophotometer method is 18.1±0.99,sunscreen has moderate effect of uv protection,suitable for moderate sunlight use;Moisture rate is 50.35±4.63%,implying certain moisturizing effect;0.1%concentration of GSPE tyrosine enzyme inhibition rate is 67.19%,implying a good whitening effect;DPPH free radical clearance rate is 53.18%,the ultra oxygen anion clearance rate is 59.97%,hydroxyl free radical clearance rate is 50.24%,implying significant anti-aging effect. |
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