| With the rapid development of society and the continuous improvement of people's living standards,people's demand for clothes is no longer just for its beauty,but also higher requirements for the comfort of the garment.As a necessary category in women's clothes,fitted blouses have a very broad sales market.But in the process of wearing,consumers sometimes might be uncomfortably stressed by various activities.Therefore,on the basis of body measurement,this paper studied the pressure comfort of the fitted female blouse by combining the subjective evaluation of the pressure comfort and the objective measurement of clothing pressure.It is expected to provide a reference for the design and production of fitted and comfortable blouses.Based on the literature research and questionnaire investigation,through the reasonable design of experiments and the deep analysis of the experiments'results,the following achievements were obtained:Firstly,a questionnaire survey was conducted on the pressure comfort of the fitted blouse,it was found that most people chose to buy long sleeved cotton blouse and put comfort and beauty in an important position;Uncomfortable situations were commonly met when people wore fitted blouse;Particularly in the arm's movement,the degree of discomfort rose sharply,and the main uncomfortable positions were in the arm and back,followed by the shoulder and chest.According to the results above,the body measurements of four regions that caused discomfort were studied.The elongation rate of skin in fourteen parts of ten female subjects with medium height under six different postures was measured by the lineation-on-body method.It was found that the largest elongation rate of the skin occurred at the upper arm when the arm was straight upward.In details,for the four parts of the upper arm,i.e.L11?the segment from the back left axillary point along the upper arm surface to the left elbow point?,L12?the segment from the front left axillary point along the upper arm surface to the back left axillary point?,L13?the segment from the back left axillary point along the body surface to C point?the intersection point of the most edge of the human arm when facing the human body and the L12??and L14?the segment from C point along the upper arm surface to the front left axillary point?,the elongation rate reached the biggest when the arm was straight upward.The maximum elongation rate of L14was 59.76%;The maximum elongation rate of L12 was 43.47%;The maximum elongation rate of L13 was 31.21%;The maximum elongation rate of L11 was 30.66%.The maximum elongation rate of beck was 32.95%which occurred when the arm was straight upward.Then,sixteen commonly used blouse fabrics were collected and their basic parameters and extensibility were measured.The 16 blouse fabrics were divided into 4 groups according to the elongation rate by cluster analysis,1 fabric was chosen from each group according to the rule that the 4 fabrics chosen had similar structural parameters and as big difference as possible on fabric extensibility.And the 4 fabrics were made into 12 fitted blouses according to 3 chest ease levels,i.e.6cm,8cm and 10cm.For the above 12 fitted blouses,eight female subjects were selected to carry out the wear experiment.When the arms drooping naturally,holding horizontally at sides,straight upward,holding horizontally in front,the chest expanding,the arms holding the chest,the arms stacking on the table while the body was sitting at the table,the clothing pressure of 4 points of the upper arm and 2 points on the back was tested with the AMI air bag pressure tester,the subjective evaluation of the pressure comfort,holistic pressure comfort and overall pressure comfort of the fitted blouse at the above 6 points was carried out by the subjects.The consistency analysis was carried out on the subjective evaluation results of the 8 subjects and it was found their results were consistent.The results of subjective evaluation of the pressure comfort and the objective clothing pressure measurement of the fitted female blouse were analyzed.It was found that the pressure comfort at the upper arm measurement point P1 and the back measurement point P5 was the worst respectively when the arms were straight upward and the arms stacking on the table while the body was sitting at the table.The correlation analysis and regression analysis of the subjective evaluation of the pressure comfort and the results of the clothing pressure measurement of the upper arm measurement point P1 and the back measurement point P5 were carried out,it was found that the correlation coefficient of P1 between the subjective evaluation result of pressure comfort and the clothing pressure measurement is 0.794,the regression equation was Y=0.182*X3.488.488 and the goodness of fit of the regression equation was0.869;the correlation coefficient of P5 between the subjective evaluation result of pressure comfort and the clothing pressure measurement was 0.634,the regression equation was Y=2.698+4.454X-3.452X2 and the goodness of fit of the regression equation was 0.448.The pressure comfort of fitted blouse could be predicted by test the clothing pressure of the measurement point P1.In this thesis,the pressure comfort of the fitted blouse was analyzed from two aspects:the blouse ease and the fabric extensibility.By studying the influence of fabric extensibility on the pressure comfort of the fitted blouses,it was found that there was no significant difference between the clothing pressure of the fitted blouses made of fabrics with latitudinal breaking elongation rate 106.3%and 59.1%respectively.The clothing pressure of the fitted blouse made of fabric with latitudinal breaking elongation rate 25.0%was the biggest.By studying the influence of blouse ease on the pressure comfort of the fitted blouses,it was found that when the bust ease was equal or greater than 8cm and the sleeve width was equal or greater than30.5cm,the fitted blouse made of the fabric with latitudinal breaking elongation rate106.3%could meet the pressure comfort requirements;when the bust ease was 10cm and the sleeve width was 31cm,the fitted blouse made of the fabric that with latitudinal breaking elongation rate 59.1%could meet the pressure comfort requirements;when the bust ease was10cm and the sleeve width was 30.5cm,the fitted blouse made of the fabric with latitudinal breaking elongation rate 43.4%could only meet the pressure comfort requirements of back.In this thesis,when the arms were straight upward and the arms stacking on the table while the body was sitting at the table,the regression analysis of the relationship between the clothing pressure of the measuring point P1 of the upper arm and the measuring point P5 of the back and the ease of the fitted blouse and the extensibility of the fabric were carried out respectively,and the regression equation was obtained.When the arms were straight upward,the regression equation of upper arm measurement point P1 wasY=2.326+25.285X1-1.587X3+0.212X4+1.567X22+0.178X32-0.013X42-59.834X1*X2+4.586X1*X3+0.35X1*X4+0.44X2*X3+0.158X2*X4-0.14X3*X4and the goodness of fit was 0.690;When the arms were stacked,the regression equation of upper arm measurement point P1 was Y=1.471+29.781X1-0.929X3-0.46X4+1.311X22+0.141X32+0.051X42-54.022X1*X2-0.582X1*X3+2.881X1*X4+0.256X2*X3+0.268X2*X4-0.057X3*X4 and the goodness of fit was 0.751;When the arms were lifted,the regression equation of upper arm measurement point P5 was Y=0.606-0.39X2-0.013X4-11.288X12+0.091X22-0.018X42+0.666X1*X4+0.015X2*X4 and the goodness of fit was 0.251;When the arms were stacked,the regression equation of upper arm measurement point P1 was Y=-0.114+17.308X1-0.017X3+0.914X22+0.025X32+0.007X42-23.53X1*X2-1.364X1*X3+0.047X1*X4-0.051X2*X3-0.011X2*X4+0.009X3*X4 and the goodness of fit was 0.339.Finally,the regression analysis was carried out between the pressure of the back and upper arm when subjects were wearing a fitted blouse that the bust ease was 6cm and the tensile force of the 4 fabrics,the goodness of fit of the upper arm and back were low.Based on the data of skin elongation and the wearing experiment of fitted blouse,the regression equation for predicting pressure comfort by clothing pressure is constructed,the regression equation for predicting clothing pressure by the fitted female blouse's ease and fabric's extensibility is constructed,it provides a reference for the design and production of comfortable fitted blouses. |
PDF Full Text Request