Development Of Functional Cosmetics Based On The Natural Drug-Glycyrrhiza Active Component

Objective: To determine the best extraction method of glycyrrhiza extract by comparing the extraction solvent and optimizing the extraction process,and to investigate the whitening,anti-oxidative,anti-allergic and anti-bacterial activities of the extract.Cosmetics containing glycyrrhiza glycol extract were manufactured and their physicochemical properties and trial effects were investigated.Methods: UV spectrophotometric method was used to evaluate the whitening,anti-oxidative,anti-allergic,anti-bacterial activities of the extract of glycyrrhiza;HPLC method was used to compare the glycyrrhizic acid and liquiritin concentration of licorice extract from different solvents,and the response surface method was used to optimize the technology process of the extract.Relevant research was also carried to study the inhibition mechanism of the glycol extract of glycyrrhiza on tyrosinase;According to the industry standard,physical and chemical tests were carried out on the self-made cosmetics cream,and the selection and evaluation of the self-made cosmetics cream were conducted according to the sense of use of the volunteers.Results: 1.The propanediol extract of glycyrrhiza was higher than that of glycyrrhiza ethanol extract and glycyrrhiza water extract in the inhibition of tyrosinase,DPPH· free radical scavenging effect and antibacterial effect,and the content of glycyrrhizic acid and liquiritin in the extract of the glycol extract was the highest among the three extracts.Therefore,propanediol was selected as the best extraction solvent.2.Using SPSS software to analyze the response surface method,the results showed that: the best condition for 8 times the mass concentration of 90% propanediol extracted 2h under 100 ?.3.The inhibition of tyrosinase by propanediol extract was a reversible mixed inhibition;The inhibition rate of tyrosinase,hyaluronidase,DPPH· free radical and ·OH radical scavenging effect of glycyrrhizin propanediol extract were 16.33 mg/mL,54.55 mg/mL,6.08mg/mL and 63.02 mg/mL,respectively.When the reduction capacity was 1,the concentration was 56.65 mg/mL.4.It is determined that formula No.4 is the final formula and the extract is added to the formulation is of 7.5%.The physical and chemical properties of the self-made cream are in accordance with the industry standard,and 92% skin of the Volunteer whiteness can be observed visually after 40 days of continuous use of the product.Conclusion: By comparing the activity of the extracts,propanediol was determined as the best solvent for extraction.The optimum extraction conditions of propanediol extract were determined.The whitening,anti-oxidative,anti-allergic,anti-bacterial activities of propanediol extract were studied.The application of the propanediol extract to the cosmetic is provided,and relevant studies could also provide important reference for cosmetics solvent choice of other traditional Chinese medicines.