The Screening And Mechanism Research Of Plant-derived Anti-aging Cosmetic Additives

Internal and external factors jointly cause skin aging,which is the most visualized manifestation of aging.With the focus on skin health,the anti-aging effect has become a vital cosmetic appeal.The anti-aging cosmetics with "plant/herb" claims are popular due to their"green" and "healthy" concepts.Although China has abundant plant resources and theories for cosmetic Chinese herbal,we lack efficient and stable methods for screening and mechanism research of anti-aging additives.Firstly,in this study,human dermal fibroblasts(HDF)and H2O2-induced HDF were used to establish in vitro anti-aging research model.The content of collagen type ?(COL-1)in the research model was detected to evaluate the anti-aging activities of 17 additives.The results showed that Thamnolia vermicularia(T.vermicularia)extract and madecassoside with the best effect might be potential anti-aging cosmetic additives.Secondly,in order to elucidate the anti-aging mechanisms of T.vermicularia extract and madecassoside,we explored their mechanisms by promoting COL-I production and inhibiting its degradation.By comparing the two principal components in T.vermicularia extract(vermicularin and ?-sitosterol),we found vermicularin is the main active compound of T.vermicularia extract preventing skin aging.Vermicularin promoted collagen production by increasing TGF-?1 expression and up-regulating the transcription of COL1A1.The promotion rate of COL-I expression in natural HDF cells was as high as 39.9%.Moreover,vermicularin could inhibit the degradation of collagen by reducing intracellular ROS,weakening the activation of MAPK pathway and down-regulating the expression of MMP-1(decreased by 39.6%).However,madecassoside had no obvious regulatory effect on collagen expression.Madecassoside played anti-aging effect mainly by decreasing MMP-1 expression mediated by ROS/MAPK pathway,thus it could reduce collagen degradation and increase collagen level indirectly(COL-I content increased by 31.9%and 26.1%in two cell models).In summary,an in vitro fibroblast model for researching anti-aging cosmetic additives was established in this project,which would be conducive to the screening of potential plant-derived additives.On this basis,the anti-aging mechanisms of T.vermicularia extract and madecassoside were clarified.This research could promote the application of plant resources with anti-aging activities in cosmetic industry.