Research On The Technology Of Avoiding Wrinkles In Shirt Sleeve

Sewing shrinkage is one of the important factors affecting the appearance quality of the garment,which caused by the fabric compaction,uneven,and twisted.Hunan Unforgettable Garment Co.,Ltd.has the problem such as sewing wrinkles in the production process of shirts,which affects the quality of shirt.In addition,the company has been debugging the sewing equipment based on the subjective experience of the workers,which is no scientific and accurate technical parameters as a theoretical guide,so the research on the process of shirt wrinkle avoidance is carried out.At the same time,in the modern garment production process,the shirt is usually divided into different small work units,which are completed by different workers.The seams are more likely to be creased in some key parts of the curved joints,so the wrinkle avoidance technology of shirt sleeve sewing is studied.Based on the research results of scholars,it is found that the factors that have a great influence on the sewing wrinkles are fabric properties,garment structure and sewing conditions.The fabric properties mainly include tensile elongation,bending stiffness,shear stiffness,surface roughness,Surface friction coefficient,etc.,and garment plate making mainly includes different plate-making parts,curved size,etc.The sewing conditions mainly include sewing thread type,stitch tension,presser foot pressure,stitch density,needle number,sewing speed and so on.Through enterprise research and expert interviews,the shirts were selected as the research object,and the over-stitched sleeves in the factory were sewn by two processes,including the double-needle double-chain sewing process and the flat-stitching sewing process.In the paper,we use the 6 kinds of fabrics provided by the company and the 175/96 A model,select the stitch density,the stitch tension and the presser foot pressure as the sewing process parameters.Through the comprehensive experiment,the linear inner overlock experiment is carried out,and the selection is for each type.The optimum sewing process parameters of the fabric sewing machine are used in the second crimping sewing experiment of the armhole.Through the experiment,the double-needle double-strand sewing of the sleeves was carried out to study the relationship between the mechanical properties of the fabric and the sewing process parameters,in order to solving the wrinkle problem of the sleeves of the garment enterprises.The main research contents are as follows:1.Using six kinds of fabrics provided by the factory,using the KES instrument and fabric thickness gauge to measure the physical and mechanical properties of the fabric,including surface roughness,shear stiffness,bending stiffness and other indicators.The suture tension,foot pressure and stitch density were selected as the variable parameters of the sewing.At the same time,The 0.6cm seam and polyester core sewing thread were used as the invariant parameters to carry out the linear inner overlock sewing experiment.The combination of the sewing process parameters of the best level sewing machine for each fabric is used in the crimping of the armhole.Through the 162 sets of double-needle double-strand sewing experiment,the best parameters of the combination of flat-stitching and crimping test,the sleeves were finished,and the subjective evaluation was carried out.2.By using the scatter diagram,variance,range,cluster and other chart analysis on the evaluation results of the flat and wear.The relationship between the sewing conditions of the sleeves and the evaluation indexes of the flats and the wearing indicators was analyzed by the scatter plot;the trend of the sewing process parameters and the wearing evaluation indexes of the cotton shirt fabrics was analyzed by the scatter plot and trend graph;The saliency of the needle double-strand sewing process parameters,the final analysis of the optimal sewing process parameters for the first process of double-needle double-strand sewing.Finally,through cluster analysis,two groups of the best sewing process parameters clustered with obvious differences were obtained: Category 1: Fabric 1#,5#,6# Class 2: Fabric2#,3#,4#.3.Correlation analysis between the physical and mechanical properties of the six fabrics and the best sewing conditions,and extracting seven fabric performance indexes which are significantly related to the process parameters of the shirt sleeve quilting,respectively,the fabric thickness and the tensile energy WT.Tensile resilience RT,shear stiffness G,surface roughness SMD,friction coefficient mean deviation MIU,compression resilience RC.4.The flat seam crimping experiment with relatively high sewing parameters was carried out,and the paired sample t-test was performed with the flatness of the sleeves of the best sewing process parameters,and the final test is obtained by sewing with the best sewing process parameters.The flatness of the finished sleeves was significantly improved.At the same time,the correlation between the wearing evaluation and the three-dimensional evaluation was analyzed,and finding that the three-dimensional scanning sleeves was close to the actual wearing condition.In this study,the sewing process parameters of the shirt cuffs are closely related to the fabric performance.Through the quantitative relationship,the theoretical basis for the cause of the folds of the shirt sleeves and the optimization of the wrinkle avoidance process is provided for the enterprise in the shirt sleeves.The selection of the sewing parameters in the sewing provides the reference for the company to complete the shirt production quickly and efficiently,and the appearance quality is higher.