The Design And Functionalization Of Simplified Song Brocade Jacquard Woven Fabrics

The jacquard weaving process is a modern weaving technique to achieve large patterned fabrics through the interweaving of colored yarns.In detail,the combination of colored yarns and the weaving structures endows the fabrics different colors and textures.The jacquard weaving process therefore has a lot of space for innovation and the development of new fabrics.With strong cultural confidence,the heritage and development of traditional Chinese culture is drawing intense attention.Song Brocade is one of China's first intangible cultural heritages,originating from Suchow,and has a long history of nearly 700 years.It indicates the exquisite weaving skills of the ancients and their endless artistic creativity.However,the development of traditional Song Brocade is currently restricted by some factors,such as high costs,small audiences and complex processes.How to break these limitations to aid the heritage and development of Song Brocade has therefore become the major problem to solve.The thesis used the jacquard weaving process to design and fabricate fabrics with Song Brocade elements,with innovation in terms of patterns and fabric functionalities to drive the development of Song Brocade or jacquard woven fabrics.A non-scale questionnaire survey was conducted to indicate the current development of Song Brocade and people's attitudes towards its innovation,in order to explore the direction of innovation in Song Brocade.The results of the survey show that the general public has a positive attitude towards the innovation in Song Brocade,and it was learnt that the innovation of Song Brocade should be driven by textile technology.In this thesis,two simplified Song Brocade fabrics for apparel application and two photochromic jacquard woven fabrics have been developed,and the influence of processing parameters on the relevant properties has been explored.The work can be summarized as follows:(1)The simplified Song Brocade jacquard woven fabrics of ‘Square Within Circle' and ‘Moon Over Lotus' for apparel application have been developed to promote Song brocade culture and enhance the competitiveness of jacquard woven fabric-based products.Nine different ‘Within the Circle' jacquard woven fabric samples were woven with picks per inch and weft raw material as variants to indicate the influence of picks per inch and type of weft yarn on the hygroscopic heating and moisture permeability of the fabrics.(2)The two photochromic jacquard woven fabrics of ‘Catharanthus Roseus' and ‘Butterfly Face' have been developed by using photochromic yarn as weft system for reversible color change effect under sunlight or ultraviolet(UV)light.Three jacquard woven fabric samples of‘Catharanthus Roseus' have been developed by changing processing parameters including picks per inch and weave structure.The effect of picks per inch and weft-float length on the photochromic performance of the jacquard woven fabrics has been investigated by comparing the coloration time and the color recovery time of samples with different weft densities and different weave structures with/without natural sunlight.