| As a unique Straight through ethnic group in Yunnan,China,the Jinuo ethnic group is distinguished from other ethnic groups by its unique dress,folk custom and culture,becoming the last established single ethnic minority.As an important carrier of the Jinuo culture,Jinuo costume embodies the unique history and spiritual culture of the Jinuo people.The research on the aesthetic culture of Jinuo costume has guiding significance for the inheritance and development of the culture within the Jinuo ethnic group.Meanwhile,Jinuo costume culture contains the cultural gene of primitive civilization,which has profound cultural connotation and high artistic research value.Through the investigation and combing,it is found that the research of Jinuo costume culture is not deep enough at the present stage,and the Jinuo costume culture is facing the severe situation of erosion and neglect.Based on ancient books,relevant local materials,contemporary research documents,museum collections and field survey data in Jinuo Township of Jinghong City,Yunnan Province,this paper studies the clothing of Jinuo ethnic group by field survey method and literature analysis method from the perspectives of art anthropology and costume design,combined with ethnology,culturology and thinking.This paper aims to study and analyze the internal causes and external clothing aesthetic cultural changes of the Jinuo ethnic group,and systematically refine the underlying logic of the aesthetic cultural changes of the Jinuo ethnic group by summarizing and sorting out the geographical environment,historical origin,clothing modeling features,patterns,textile techniques,color matching and other elements,with the thinking logic changes of the Jinuo ancestors as the main,and the historical and cultural context as the auxiliary.Based on the analysis of the changes of clothing patterns and shapes,the historical time line contained in clothing culture and the historical time line recorded in oral history are mutually corroborated,and the Jinuo ethnic group’s aesthetic cultural changes and their cultural connotation are discussed from the changes of cognitive level,thinking mode,ideology and clothing patterns.Thus,it is concluded that the aesthetic evolution of Jinuo is affected by cognitive change,cultural integration and social and technological level,and the overall aesthetic change law is presented from primitive simplicity to individual diversity,forming a change trend of weakening the connotation of form and system,increasing the connotation of pattern,enhancing the practicality of form and system,and enhancing the representativeness of pattern,and condenses the typical factors in various stages of the development of Jinuo clothing.It provides reference for predicting the development direction of contemporary Jinuo clothing.With the development needs of The Times in ethnic areas and the promotion and development of national cultural soft power,the rise and development of cultural inheritance and cultural industry are gradually constructed under the support of national policies.The research on the aesthetic culture of Jinuo costume plays a positive role in the development of Jinuo culture from three aspects.Firstly,systematic sorting,scientific analysis and logical deduction are conducted to construct the systematic cognition and composition of the Jinuo costume aesthetic,which provides reference for the redesign and inheritance of traditional Jinuo costumes by using typical factors in the contemporary era,and how to judge the Jinuo ethnic genes,etc.,which has historical value.Secondly,from the construction of historical change system,the internal and external causal relationship between the shape,system and aesthetic activities of the Jinuo people is clarified.From the mining of clothing representation and spiritual core symbols,some typical features and core factors of clothing that can be associated with contemporary aesthetics are extracted,so as to provide materials for the transformation of traditional Jinuo clothing into contemporary ethnic clothing images.Therefore,it is of academic value to solve the problem that its "leap for thousands of years" in Jinuo ethnic costume image,aesthetic customs and other aspects do not match the current social development.Thirdly,from the aspects of systematic research on the development process of ethnic costume culture and aesthetic,establishment of typical features,core factors and constituent elements of costume culture mining and extraction,forming Jinuo costume culture gene system,the construction of Jinuo costume characteristic system is completed,and the original thoughts and consciousness of aesthetic culture behind the phenomenon of Jinuo costume culture are analyzed and established.In this way,it can solve the problem of the Jinuo traditional costume culture and aesthetics entering the contemporary era.While maintaining the ethnic characteristics,it can also build the aesthetic culture system of the new Jinuo ethnic costume which matches the consciousness of the national community in the new era,so it has social value. |
