Research On The Pattern Gernation Technology Of MTM For Women’s Special Body

MTM is a kind of apparel manufacture form and it includes tailored-clothes and masscustomization. Tailored-clothes is for individual’s bodily form and style; masscustomization is sweeping costume manufacture. It combines the customization andmanufacture. Mass customization becomes a major trend in the garment industry for itshigh efficiency and high fit. Mass customization can solve the most problem of unfitgarments for consumers, but with the development of economic and increasing marketcompetition, more and more people are too busy to attend to the physical exercise and theyare in sub-health state in a long period. With the improving of living standard there was amajor change in diet so some people’s body figures have undergone great changes. Amajorpart of the body imbalance deformity occurs and exceeding the scope of normal sizeformed a special body form group which can not be overlooked. Many people of specialbody form can not get fit clothing by mass customization with a simple comparisonbetween control sizes to change patterns.This thesis extracted the special body form data through body measurement andcharacteristics indicators of the typical special body form such as high chest body,highlight belly body and high scapula body. Then set up mannequins of high chest body,mannequins of highlight belly body and mannequins of high scapula body these threespecial body mannequins according to the extracted data. Then get the basic pattern ofthose three special body forms. Set up alteration rule of special body form with a model ofcomparative analysis to get a more regular pattern. Set up women’s basic pattern sheet database of special body form and alteration rule base model, so it can supply sufficienttechnique support and ready for further to set up MTM for women’s special body form.Main research about the thesis is as follows.（1）Measurement of three-dimensional body. Using Tecmath non-contact laserthree-dimensional body scanner to measure500women whose age were between18to50 years old, and everyone was measured77parts;（2）Extraction of special body form data. Extracted characteristics indicators of highchest body, highlight belly body and high scapula body. And combine with the body sizestandard classification of countries to extract these three special body data;（3）Construction of special body form mannequin. With K-Means cluster analysishigh chest body, highlight belly body and high scapula body these three types of specialbody forms were divided into three subclasses, according to the value of characteristic setup three types of special body form mannequins with parameter correction method;（4）Establishment of basic patterns of special body form. Using special body formmannequins and drape cutting to get basic patterns of special body form and while scalingthe basic patterns to establish five patterns as basic pattern of women’s database of MTM;（5）Establishment of alteration rule for basic special body form patterns. Accordingto different sizes in the same high chest body, highlight belly body and high scapula bodyfor the overlay analysis stage, the displacement variation on the critical analysis concluded,and establish a special body model alteration rules, and verify the rules;（6）Set up female special body suit MTM system. Design female special body suitstyle on the basis of women’s basic pattern of special body form and alteration rule inorder to build female special body suit MTM system with Gerber MTM system, andrealize MTM for special body.The content of this study and the results can provide technology base of special bodyform pattern and special body form alteration rule in MTM system for women specialbody forms. As a new garment production, MTM has already become the researchemphases in clothes manufacture field and will be a important development direction ofdigital clothes manufacture in the future．...