The Research And Practice Of Applying "Shengse Flower" Of Southern Song Dynasty In The Design Of Modern Silk Scarves

With the Economic Reform and open up of China,we can tell the changes in the lifestyle of Chinese people from their closet.As a fashion item in the West,the silk scarf has gradually been wildly accepted and applied in ordinary people in China,at the mean time,with the rapid development of manufacturing of China,the female consumer group became more and more interested in fashion items such as silk scarf,because it is portable,it can be wore in variety ways,both rich in patterns and colors,and it contains three characteristics of "beauty,economy and practicality".In recent years,consumers have become increasingly unable to be satisfied by purchase those silk scarves which are produced by mass production from factories,the demand for silk scarves with individual and creative designs has become popular.Modern style is a type of silk scarves that consumers are generally keen on,the produce for this style has also becoming a blooming trend.In this thesis,the traditional "Shengse Flower" of Southern Song Dynasty is applied to the modern flower pattern in silk scarf,by categorizing the "Shengse Flower" from two aspects of the pattern composition and pattern material,which indicates that "Chuanzhi Flower" with the longitudinal branches arranges according to the "S" type and "C" type as well as "Zhezhi Flower" arranged in scattered dots were popular patterns at that time,Peony,lotus,and chrysanthemums were the most common "Shengse Flowers" by the virtue of their unique auspicious meaning.At the same time,this thesis analyze the application features of“Shengse Flower" from the three aspects of pattern,color matching and dying-weaving process,realistic and dynamic patterns,elegant and solemn color matching,as well as the dyeing and weaving process applied on the silk fabric."Shengse Flower" in Southern Song Dynasty laid the foundation for the prosperity of the pattern in Ming and Qing Dynasty.It enriched the meaning of the floral decorative pattern,which led to the emergence and popularity of the auspicious patterns in the later period.These patterns were wildly used in cloth,home textiles and decorative fabrics.My design practices modernizes the materials,color matching and dying-weaving process of "Shengse Flowers" in Southern Song Dynasty,reflecting the unique artistic beauty of contemporary "Shengse Flowers".And then,this thesis also analyzes the principal and methods of modern floral silk scarves design,which is considered to be a kind of ornamental art pieces or art work,pattern design is a bridge that connect them together,it is where the soul of the silk scarves belongs to.When it comes to selection of the theme,I chose flower materials that are correspond to the contemporary fashion trends and aesthetics,which requires the designers use the imaginary to re-present the materials,thus giving the silk scarf a fresh vitality.Handle the relationship between the various elements via different composition forms and subsequent adjustments.In the meantime,illustrating the characteristics of modern floral silk scarves from pattern,color matching and craftsmanship these three aspects.In terms of pattern use,it not only retains the basic characteristics of the elements,but also being polished through artistic methods;in terms of color application,it follows the principle of "legible main color,harmonious secondary color and suitable ornamental color";in the dyeing-weaving process,the application of bedplate printing and manual roll-hemmed technology.Modern flower silk scarves contain these three aspects are well received by consumers.I applied the features of "Shengse Flower" of Southern Song Dynasty to the design of modern silk scarves.In the process of pattern design,flower materials that correspond to the meaning of expression are chosen,the traditional shape and composition are retained,bringing the consumer in to the atmosphere created by the designer.In the process of color matching design,the main color appears from beginning to the end,it is not only a color,but also an artistic and cultural symbol,an endorsement of design inspiration.In terms of dyeing-weaving process,digital printing and bedplate printing are most commonly used in printing processes.