Research On Raschel Lace Design Based On Ethnic Elements And Numerical Control

Ethnic elements contain the image symbols and social costoms recognized by the majority of Chinese people that embody Chinese traditional culture and ethnic spirit, reflect the national dignity and conception. Along with the development of the cultural and artistic localization, and improving of consumers’ recognition of the ethnic elements, the use of the ethnic elements in costume design has become the mainstream. In the raschel lace manufacturing, the ethnic element is an important art source for personalized design and fashion integration. However, there exists severe problems of excessive westernization and lack of ethnic flavors in the raschel lace production, because ethnic flavors are difficult to display in the raschel lace design and production. The key point to solve this problem is the mastering of artistry and technology in lace design and production.This essay combined the scope of art and industry, troughly analyzed the ethnic elements in lace fabric by researching the developing history, fabric pattern, design composition and color, aimed at modern raschel lace designing and knitting methods, presented the systematic method of applying ethnic elements in the digital controlled raschel knitting machine. First, from the Chinise and Wster lace development history and art characteristics, through literature, investigation and research, the Chinise ethnic lace style featureas and aesthetic value are summarized; second, relying on the platform of ministry of education knitting technology engineering research center in Jiangnan University, combined with the process characteristics of multibar raschel machine and jacquard raschel machine, the performing methods of the ethnic elements on machine were researched; third, according the performing methods, the design methods of the ethnic lace fabric in CAD system were proposed; finally, through the practice of design and production, raschel lace fabrics containing rich ithnic elements were successfully knitted, and the research contents were validated. The research contents and conclusions were as follows:1. By comparing the historical background, development reasons, development process, art performance, technical and artistic characteristics, specific appearance of Chinese and Western lace fabrics, the art features of classically ethnic pattern system was summarized.The expression forms of ethnic elements in raschel laces mainly contain the plant patterns, animal patterns, character patterns, myth animal patterns, artifact patterns, geometric patterns, auspicious word patterns and blessing language combination patterns. The most obvious characteristics of ethnic elements is reflected on the expression of cultural meaning, including symbolic expression, honophonic expression, metonymic expression and multi-kinds combination. The most important difference between Chinese and Western artistic expression is the spirit idea. Chinese has always stressed the idea of the “harmony between human and nature”, emphasized the expression of emotion and concentrated more on the spirit. The Wstern lace fabrics focus on describing the objective world and pay more attention on the form. The Chinese traditional aesthetic value could be summarized as the spirit of homony and balance.2. Based on the technological features of multibar and jacquard raschel warp knitting machine, the application methods of ethnic elements on the two kinds of machines were studied.For the ethnic patterns application in multibar raschel lace mathine, the methods mainly include two aspects of technology and art. In the technological aspect, the warp needs to be coherent, the horizontal circulation of pattern should not be too large, and the number of used pattern bar should be attended. In the artistic aspect, the machine features of pattern, the processing of the transition line and the technological characteristics of lace machine should be well used.For the ethnic patterns application in jacquard raschel lace mathine, the methods also mainly include two aspects of technology and art. In the technological aspect, the Jacquard yarn needle guide at run time is not to be displaced or migration of the generated process feature and pattern edge by edge technology, jacquard comb braided to organize can form change of organization. In the artistic aspect, expression of manifestation, abstraction, jacquard raschel lace arranged linear combinations, jacquard lace in the structural design should be considered.3. The design methods of ethnic elements in the CAD system for digital controlled raschel lace machine were studied, including the usage scope, feature moastering, decorative expression, symbolic language performance, etc. in or to achieve the physiological, mental, technological and practical functions of ethnic elements.The involvement of digital controlled raschel lace machine has made the application scope of national lace unrestricted, the pattern design, transfering and modification more convenient, is conducive to the full display of the national lace. To grasp the performance on digital controlled raschel lace machines, the patterns using rules, pattern color rules, patterns forming rules and pattern composition rules should be noted; to completely reflect the ethnic elements’ artistic effect, the lining weft type of expression, the yarn pressing type expression, jacquard way, left wire, etc. should also be grasped.4. The Chinese traditional pattern form and design methods on digital controlled raschel lace were practiced.The first step was making design scheme, find fashion trend and designing patterns, including main patterns, accessory patterns, pattern links and patter edges. Second, note the pattern introducing and deformation methods during the artistic processing of ethnic lace. Third, the most impotant points in ethnic raschel multibar lace design are the determination of main parts, the modellin of lace and the pattern transition. Additionally, the fabric produced by the multibar lace machine could creatie a strong sense of lace layer due to the permeability of the bottom net, through the silk thread technology, the gradient effect of the pattern could be generated. Finally, the ethnic patterned wide stripe lace products, such as “both blessings and wisdoms”, were successfully knitted on the steel-wire pattern-bar lace machin JL42/1(machine no. E24), with horizontal density of 11 wpc and vertical density of 38 cpc.