Research On The Inheritance And Development Of Nanjing Yunjin Brocade

Nanjing Yunjin Brocade,as a kind of jacquard silk fabric produced in Nanjing.has a long history and combines various types of silk textile techniques.As Chinese traditional silk culture for 7000 years,it is an outstanding representative of human silk weaving skills.In October 2009,the craftsmanship of Nanjing Yunjin Brocade was inscribed on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.This thesis analyzes the values of Yunjin brocade and the practical significance of its inheritance in historical,cultural,artistic,social,economic and spiritual aspects through historical context,literature review,field observation,case study,and feedback and so on,thus to make a more comprehensive research on Nanjing Yunjin brocade.This thesis is composed of five parts as follows:The first part is the historical development of Nanjing Yunjin Brocade.Through the historical and physical evidence collection and analysis combined with the changes in China's brocade industry,the origin and historical evolution of Yunjin are traced;and the root causes of the rise and fall of brocade are explored through the research on the traditional business format of official weaving institutions and folk weaving industry in the Yuan,Ming and Qing dynasties.The second part is the craftsmanship and varieties of Nanjing Yunjin brocade.Yunjin's unique high-level weaving technology is the main reason why it becomes the representative of human intangible cultural heritage.Different weaving methods are important indicators for the classification of traditional Yunjin.Based on relevant graphic and textual data and investigations,the core weaving process of Yunjin is recorded as well as the traditional weaving formulas.At the same time,the essential features of major varieties of Yunjin are concluded to lay foundations for further study.The third part is Nanjing Yunjin brocade's traditional patterns and color applications.Nanjing Yunjin brocade not only involves silk-weaving techniques,but also embodies the essence of our auspicious culture.The pattern design and color application completely reflect the extraordinary skills of Yunjin craftsmen.Through studying Yunjin pictures in the Ming and Qing Dynasties,and making the comparison tables,the design rules and evolution trend of the pattern and color of Yunjin are systematically analyzed.The fourth part is the connotation and cultural derivation of court etiquette in Nanjing Yunjin brocade.As Yunjin flourished in the feudal dynasty and served as the high-grade silk fabrics for the emperor,generals and nobles,it has an extremely profound connotation of“divine right of kings" of the ruling class.By studying the application of the pattern and color of the brocade under the court etiquette system,it is possible to find the strict hierarchy,the implications and the imperial aesthetic trends contained in it,which is also the most important and special cultural and artistic connotation of Yunjin.The last part is the preservation and inheritance of Nanjing Yunjin Brocade.With the accelerated process of social modernization,the practical problems of inheritance faced by Yunjin,greatly limit its development in modern society.Through the elaboration and analysis of the multi-dimensional value and inheritance status of Yunjin,people's sense of crisis can be strengthened.Based on the preservation and inheritance of the excellent skills of the traditional Yunjin,it should be advocated to profoundly self-analyze with related policies and regulations,and good cases,thus to propose practical suggestions for sustainable development of Yunjin.The multi-dimensional value of Nanjing Yunjin brocade is a significant living evidence for the vitality of our national silk culture and is an important source of the revival of silk culture and its sustainable development.The systematic research on Nanjing Yunjin brocade's historical background,craftsmanship,achievements in art and culture,modern preservation and development can provide a broader living space for Yunjin in modern ideology and aesthetic context,as well as a theoretical basis and support for promoting the excellent traditional Chinese culture.It is expected that the research of this thesis can trigger the reflection on the sustainable development of other intangible cultural heritages.