Technical Study Of Garment Structure Matching Balanced On Human Body's Dynamic & Static State

With the development of life condition, people's demanding of garment's function, comfort and aesthetic property is more and more increasing. Whereas, learning from the result of research, the pattern makers are lack of the theoretic instruction in the process of pattern making, they just depend on their experience; the studies of comfort and aesthetics based on garment structure are relatively deficient; the establishment of structure models have most based on signal part, and hasn't realized the integration of garment which emphasizes the balance between human body andgarment.Based on the demanding and actual conditions, the paper focuses on the technical study of garment structure matching balanced on human body's dynamic and static state. The main contributions consist of:First of all, finishing the measurement of human body's dynamic and static state, obtaining the changeable range of body skin's dimension, which providing scientific foundation for decision of style ease .Then, through the experimental design and implementation,obtaining the changeable range of each garment structural factor; by permutation and combination, there are 32 samples being left and tailored.Thirdly, establishing the subjective evaluate system. By analyzing the factors of garment structure, several indexes have been chosen; the evaluation has been carried out by two steps, first is the static evaluation, secondly is the dynamic one.Afterward, in the part of data analysis: verifying the validity of experimental data by Mutlivatiate and Bivariate Correlations (Kendall's tau-b); according to the Cluster Analysis and Correlate Analysis, 9 evaluation indexes have been selected; according to Principal Component Analysis, 2 principal components have been abstracted from the 9 indexes; dividing 32 samples into 4 sorts by Cluster Analysis, which based on the results of Principal Component Analysis.Finally, in the part of mathematics modeling: establishing functions among structural factors of all sorts of samples by Regression Analysis, these functions can be used to forecast the dimension of garment structure pertinently; establishing the parameter models of armhole and sleeve cap, then inosculating the armhole and sleeve cap by AutoCAD based on the principle of NURBS; establishing the discriminant function and rules by Discriminant Analysis, which can be used to predict the sort of new sample according to its dimension of some known structural factors.During the actual process, pattern makers can make use of these mathematics models to predict the dimensions of all other parts and the sort of new sample, also can attain the curves of armhole and sleeve cap, as long as being provided with some basal parts' dimensions. Then make the decision whether the sample willbe accepted or not.This study puts forward a scientific method for the technical study of garment structure matching and automatic generation of garment pattern. According to survey, similar study has not been reported in this special field, so it has great significant and will be useful and helpful for further study.