Research On The Made To Measure System Of The Men's Individual Pattern Based On MTM

By the driven of the demand quick response during the production of customized garment, this paper aim to develop a quick generate system(MTM system) of customized pattern, and mainly discuss same key techniques to implement the Made to Measure system.The paper refer to the traditional flow of customized garment production, and design a model of MTM system. According to the flow, design the "Create Orders → Orders Batch Process" architecture. In the "Create Orders" module, we use a ODBC database to storing any kinds of information during the production. And use a "OrderProcess" command to process the orders in batch process. For each order the command do the job follows such steps: Open Basic Pattern → Classify the Customer's Size → Grading the Basic Pattern to the Fit Size → Customer's Body Type Identify → Alterate the Graded Pattern to Fit For the Certain Body Type → Output the Customized Pattern, We use Access build a system database, and use AutoCAD as a platform for second development, using the ObjectARX extend library,The paper use the [TC]~2 Body Measure System as the equipment to get the customer's body information. Setup a size standard fit for MTM base on larger quantity's sample and measurements. We grade the basic pattern by using a parameter based grading ruler. For each style in the system's database, only need setup a basic pattern and build a grading ruler. Other patterns are derived from the basic pattern by grading. The grading method is "key point → movement " structure. The grading ruler are rulers for each key point in the basic pattern, and are separated from it. So other style garments which have similar structure can use the same grading ruler. The key point in the pattern is identified with a code. Coding for each pattern should base on a certain coding ruler.To fit for the customer's special body type, the graded pattern mustbe alterated according to those kinds of body type. We use two mainly alteration method to perform a such kind of alteration. The first is named "XY Shift", and the other is "Rotate". Since these alteration method are main methods used in manual alterations, and are fit for most alterations. The alteration's amount can be coordinate with the body types degree.Before performing a alteration, must has the body type identified. In the paper, we use a logical expression as the body type identify ruler, which has the bool value. While the expression's value is "TRUE", the customer has the certain body type, and "FALSE" is not. The expression support many functions which enhance its power. And we can extend the expression's ability by supporting more useful functions.