The Characteristic Research And Effect To Vertical Wall Of Focusing Wave

Because the process of wave breaking is rather complex, neither theory nor numericalsimulation has ever been adequate to describe the kinematics and dynamics of wave breakingfully. Field observations have also been inadequate due to the randomness in the spatial andtemporal occurrences of wave breaking. Experimental study to examine the configuration offocusing wave breaking is primary significant.The two-dimensional wave focusing method was described. According to linear wavetheory, wave energy can be focused at a specified point by linearly decreasing thewave-maker frequency. The spectral properlies and wavelet spectra are experimentally investi-gated. Three kinds of frequency spectra were involved in the research. CWA spectra meansthat all the amplitude of component wave keep the same. CWS spectra means that the steep-ness of component wave are the same. PM spectra means that the shape of the wave spectrmis the same with PM spectrm. The characteristics of the focusing wave, such as the evolutionof the waves, energy dissipation and parameter of wave surface are studied. Comparing withthe three kinds of the analyzed frequency spectra, the results give the effect of centralfrequency, frequency bandwidth, and frequency spectrua on the characteristics of the focusingwaves.To investigate the wave pressure on the vertical wall, the wave pressure distribution ofthree kinds of waves with different wave spectra, non-breaking wave, incipient breaking waveand breaking wave are analyzed. The characteristics of the wave pressure on vertical wall fordifferent stage of breaking wave are studied. The limited focusing wave as used as thecharacteristic wave for calculating the pressure. The experimental results are compared withthe pressure distribution calculated using linearity theoretic. The results will be much helpfulfor engineering design.