The Research On Grading Discipline Of The Fitted Garment With Extraordinary Diagonl Structure Line

With economic development, people’s lifestyle and consumer psychology is changing. Pursuing new and differences becomes a fashion. Creative thinking will bring innovative design, and innovative design requires technical support. This paper studies the innovative and unconventional diagonal dividing line fit clothing, including analyzing the geometric relationship of each grading point in the corresponding pattern, then summing up the grading method to the creative and unconventional diagonal line clothing. The specific research is as follows:1. This thesis through an extensive literature, summarized the three basic elements of grading, the basic principles of grading and the common methods of grading, and in-depth analysis of several dialectical unity between the difference on grading. This paper selected drawing by file difference as a reference method.2. By analyzing the relationship between clothing and human body, determine fit garment size specifications for intermediate standards 160/84 A. Based on the existing method of creative structural design theory, produce the optimum design program by analyzing the geometry of structure. Three different type of unconventional ideas split line fit clothing was made to verify the feasibility of the optimization program.3. The size 160/84 A is M intermediate size, based on which a size series table, including S, M, L, XL, XXL five specifications, was set under the "National Standard of Apparel Industry". In accordance with the optimized structure design method, the structure of five specifications were drawn using the CAD tools, and the samples were separated. Five Sample clothing were also produced in accordance with the five specifications, verified the consistency and effectiveness between pattern structure and clothing structure.4. Selecting the various pieces of the bust line and the vertical line as baselines, then the corresponding pieses of the five specifications were stacked together. Using CAD tools measured each grading point between adjacent specifications lateral and vertical displacement; as the same time according to the method of drawing by file difference, the file difference on each grading point was calculated. With the comparison of experimental and theoretical values, it can be concluded that the method of grading for creative & unconventional clothing was general and special. The general is used to the points above the chest line, and the special is reflected in the points below the chest line.5. Focus on the grading points below the chest line. According to the geometry of stacked patterns analysis the grading factors. As a result, the linear regression function expression for grading rules was found. Then it was further studied and its application was discussed. And finally, the grading model was summarized for the creative & unconventional fit clothes as the diagonal dividing line angle and the number of separate pieces was changed.6. Design 60°five pieces style of unconventional diagonal dividing line fit clothing as the object of experimental verification, make the pattern of inter-code M, put the grading difference of each point in CAD tools, then obtained the stacked graph of S, M, L, XL, XXL five specifications, and then copy the separation model, and create sample clothes. The validity of the model push files was tested by the size of test lines, clothes specifications and the dividing line angle.This thesis selected unconventional diagonal dividing line fit clothing as the starting point, revealed the pattern forms made an impact for the grading way to such clothes, and summarized the grading rules for these clothes. The significance is that it provides an effective and practical technology for the personalized, fashionable clothing industrial production. So it has strong practical value.The results of this research has enriched the theory and practice of structural design of clothing, fill the gaps of creative and unconventional fit clothes cutting line grading technology, while the course of this research has provided reference for other creative and unconventional fit clothing grading study. So research has a strong academic value.