Semi-Molding Jacquard Female Skirt High Elastic In Skirt Waist Process Design And Performance Research And Product Development

In recent years, with the improvement of people's living standard and the promoting ofconcepts, such as convenience, comfort and environmental protection, people have more andmore requirement on clothing's function. So develop textile and clothing products which havegood comfortable sensation and simple sewing processing process and less raw material wasteand good exterior effect, would have a very good market prospect.In this topic, the semi-molding jacquard skirt waist had an excellent elasticity shrinkageperformance, while skirt body parts without elastic that can make the wearer take good lightsomeand fit feeling, and avoid the feeling of enchained and oppressive. At the same time, this kind ofskirt could once shaped with different style after leave the machine. It only needed to sew up thetwo juncture sides to get a complete female skirt. It could avoid a lot of material wasting in theprocess of cutting.The semi-molding jacquard skirt waist required for high elasticity shrink and comfortablefit feeling, so the skirt waist needed a reasonable configuration of warp and weft materials andorganization structure design. Warp chose nylon yarn which has good stretching, and weft usedthree groups in which weft A was polyester yarn and weft B was staple rayon and weft C wascovered spandex yarn having good elasticity. Weave structure was double take or double hollowbag. At the same time, each performance of high elastic female skirt waist such as elasticresilience, pressure comfort, flexibility and breathability and so on, was related to the factorssuch as skirt waist's wefts arrangement, organization structure and stretch covered spandex yarnbacking floating length.For studying each factor of the high elastic female skirt waist affected on the performance,and providing certain theoretical basis to the development of semi-molding jacquard skirt, thispaper established an orthogonal test plan on properties of the samples of high elastic female skirtwaist. The orthogonal experiment has established three factors. Actor A stands for weftsarrangement which has three levels including2:1:1,4:3:1and6:5:1. Factor B stands fororganization structure which has two levels including double take organization and doublehollow bag organization. Factor C stands for covered spandex yarn backing floating length,which has three levels including18,28and38. Then, according to orthogonal analysis form L9 (34), analyzing the factors to skirt waist level of elastic fabric resilience, pressure comfort,flexibility and the effect of breathability, and based on orthogonal analysis and optimum levelcombination that: sample's elastic recovery performance influenced by factor A weftarrangement is the biggest, affected by factor B weave structure's is the next, factor C coveredspandex yarn backing floating length's influence is the minimum; Sample's pressure comfort hasgreat association with factor A weft arrangement and factor C covered spandex yarn backingfloating length, and the influences of factor B weave structure could be almost no consideration;Sample's breathability influenced by factor A weft arrangement is the biggest, factor C coveredspandex yarn backing floating length's influence is the second, and factor B weave structure'sinfluence is relatively minor; Sample's flexibility, the poor value R of the three factors are veryclose, can deemed the influence of three factors, weft arrangement, weave structure, coveredspandex yarn backing floating length, is not big.In the comprehensive analysis of female skirt waist samples' elastic resilience, pressurecomfort, breathability and flexibility, designed and developed two different style wovensemi-molding jacquard female skirt products:(1) woven semi-molding jacquard female skirtfabric with the dark flower effect of skirt waist: skirt waist a, b, and c three groups' weftarrangement for4:3:1, skirt body a and b two groups' arranged for1:1, the covered spandex yarnbacking floating length for28, skirt waist and skirt body's weave to adopt tabby hollow bagweave, the transition parts of skirt waist and skirt body adopt triangular pattern, skirt body partsused similar on the foreign castle symmetry of single grain appearance, this female skirt hasgood elasticity shrinkage performance, and soft feel, comfortable fit.(2)woven semi-moldingjacquard female skirt fabric with skirt body thrown way: skirt waist a, b, and c three groups' weftarrangement for4:3:1, skirt body a and b two groups' weft arrangement ratio for1:1and part ofwefts casting way, the covered spandex yarn backing floating length for28, skirt waist pick theplain stitching weave, skirt body use the plain hollow bag weave, the transition part of skirt waistand skirt body adopt small triangular geometry pattern, skirt body adopt a pattern similarly theYangtze river delta, because of the wefts part casting way, make the female skirt is like watergeneral dynamic aesthetic feeling, lightsome and unique style and outstanding level.