Revision Of Women’s Garment Basic Block Based On Three-dimension Human Body Date

Garment basic block, including the basic human body feature information and reflecting thebasic style information,is the foundation of pattern making.Most of the Garment basic blocksdeveloped by domestic scholars nowadays belong to the group block, only totally fitting to thestandard figure based on the specific group characteristics.There will be unfitness problem andshape deviation when group block is used to make the individual pattern,and revision is theessential work.The traditional revision method is by the three-dimensional try on and observation,bothtime-consuming and high cost,but quite intuitively.The final revision effect is restricted by theoperator’s experience.By combining the three-dimension body scanning technology and reverse engineeringtechnology,three-dimensional human model was generated for the measurement of the necessaryspace dimensions of the block.Quantitative revision method for the basic block was studied tomake the block fit the individual body shape,providing pattern for the made to measure productionmode and meeting the consumers’demands for fitness and individuation.Firstly,twenty three body measurement items directly comapared with the block measurementand fourteen body measurement items related to the revision of bust dart angle and shoulder dartangle were determined based on the Donghua block theory.From the aspect of three-dimensionmethod,there were seventeen space curve length measurement items,thirteen plane curve lengthmeasurement items,two space straight line angle measurement items,two space curved surfacearea measurement items and three ratio measurement items obtained by calculation.Secondly,by scanning the human body and the wearing block human body,ease distributionmodel in the width direction between the body and block was established,providing the revisionbasis of the front bust width and back bust width.Thirdly,by quantitative analysising the relationship between the breast and shoulder surfaceand the plane pattern,calculation model of dart angle was established,providing the revision basisof the bust dart angle and shoulder dart angle. Tourthly,by using the horizontal section method and calculating the ratio between humanbody girth ease and the difference between outside girth and wasit girth,block waist dartdistribution model was established.Finally, block revision experiment of ten females whose bust girth was between78-100centimetres was carried out.It revealed that the revised blocks were better in tightness、accuracy、smoothness and straightness.Also,the wasit dart distribution fit the individual characteristicswell,the wasit dart design improved smoothness in shoulder and reduced the straightness underthe shoulder dart.The subjective evaluation results showed that the revision method studied bythis paper can improve the block’s fitness and beauty to a certain extent.