The Comparison Of Patternmaking Methods Based On Anthropometric Measurements

The basic block is the starting of all patternmaking process,therefore,an accurate and practical pattern drafting method can help create good basic blocks that ensure the garment fit and balance.There are many pattern making methods used worldwide which are famous for their accuracy and fit.However,the Chinese apparel industry seem reluctant to adopt these methods as the garment balance and fit of these methods is not being tested for Chinese body type.This research is aimed at finding out the best fitting pattern making method for Chinese body type through the comparison of 6 major patternmaking methods in the world with under the theory base of anthropometry.The initial database,which contains body measurement database,patternmaking method details and garment ease database,is first built for pattern making experiment.The measurement of the standard 160/84 A dummy together with the body sizes in GB/T 1335.2-2008 form the anthropometry database.The pattern making method database is created with a thorough study of each pattern making method.The ease distribution of each basic block is therefore calculated,as to form the garment ease database.And thus,the initial databse for the pattern making and sample making experiment is built.The experiment is based on the method of close-fitting bodice block of each country through pattern making and sample making.Using 2D and 3D analysis,a comparison analysis is made on the aspects of garment wearing position,garment balance and garment fit.The 2D analysis is made from the method of virtual sewing and image combination.A prediction is made on the position and balance of garments.In the sample making experiment,the validation of prediction is made from the measurement of parameters.Through the results of objective and subjective experiments,a conclusion is made as to sort out the best fitting pattern making method for Chinese body type.