The Research And Development Of Seamless Knitted Shapewears Made Of PTT Filament

With the development of the economic level and the improvement of aesthetic requirements, women’s demands on shapewears rise increasingly. At the same time, higher requirements are put forward on the performance of shapewears which not only for the shaping function but also for the comfort of shapewears. Seamless garments could furthest meet the comfort requirement of human body on shapewears. But there are defects in the structure design and material application of seamless shapewears generally which will weaken the shaping effect. This paper improved the fiber material and fabric structural design on present seamless shapewears, developed several new products and verified the shaping effect of the new products.This paper selected PTT filament and polyester filament as face yarn of seamless knitted fabric as comparison. Based on the orthogonal array design, line charts were used to analysis the relationship between the performance of PTT fabric and the material of face yarn, the mixed proportion or the structure. The results show that:(1) PTT fabric has excellent performance. Compared to polyester fabric, PTT fabric has better elastic recovery, crease recovery and pilling resistance, but its drapability, moisture permeability and air permeability are poorer;(2) Mixed proportion effects the PTT/nylon fabric’s performance a lot. The higher proportion PTT occupies in the face yarn, the better elastic recovery property, moisture permeability, air permeability and pilling resistance performance knitted fabric have.(3) Structure has the most effects on the PTT/nylon fabric’s performance. Samples with 3 +1 simulate rib knit structure have the best performance on elastic recovery property, crease recovery property and pilling resistance. Samples with jersey knit structure have the best performance on drapability, moisture permeability and air permeability. Fuzzy mathematical analysis results to that the sample has the optimal performance for shapewear is with PTT filament as face yarn, nylon core-spun yarn as ground yarn and 3+1 simulate rib knit structure. Aiming at the shaping effect on chest, waist, back and abdomen of human body, this paper redesigned the style, pattern and fabric structure of exsiting shapewears in combination with the results of fabrics research and market.Objective measurement and subjective evaluation were used together to test developed shapewears’ shaping effect. Clustering analysis method was used first to define 35 women with M length in three kinds of body figure(lean figure, plump figure, standard figure) as test subjects of objective measurement. Secondly, size data of naked test subjects or with sample underwears was tested by [TC]2 3d human body scanning measurement. At last, this paper selected 9 significant measurement items(Back Neck to Back Waist, Waist Front X-Waist Back X, Seat Front X-Seat Back X, Across Back, Bust Height, Bust Width, Underbust Front X-Underbust Back X, Bust Front X-Underbust Front X, Horizontal Bust to Bust) for the change of size data from a number of indicators by Paired-Sample T Test. Bar chart analysis results show that:(1) Three shapewears have good shaping effect on chest. Y2 shapewear has better shaping effect on back. Y3 shapewear has poor shaping effect on waist;(2) Three shapewears have different shaping effect on different body figure, lean figure gets good shaping effect on chest from Y1, Y2 shapewears, but gets poor shaping effect from Y3 shapewears; Three shapewears have nice shaping effect on both chest and back of plump figure and standard figure which achieve the gather and raise of breast as good as straight and fat transfer of back.Psychological scale was used to subjectively evaluate three shapewears’ shaping effect on local and global body figure. Line chart analysis results show that: The shaping effect of Y1, Y2, Y3 shapewears get high subjective evaluation, the shaping effect of Y3 shapewear is the best on the whole; People with different body figures have different feeling about the shaping effect, thereinto, people with plump figure are more satisfied with the shaping effect, people with lean figure hold the opposite opinion; People with standard figure and plump figure are more satisfied with the shaping effect of Y3 shapewear.The new shapewear products developed in this paper were put special designs in the materials of face yarn, mixed proportion, structure and style. The shaping effect of seamless shapewears for(local and global) standard figure and plump figure was validated by the methods of subjective and objective evaluation. The development of new products has great stimulative significance in technology innovation and upgrading of textile industry.