| As a new type of healthy, green textile material, natural colored cotton(NCC) could avoidenvironment pollution for it needs no bleaching and dyeing, and it has a good softness andcomfort, so it is one of the most suitable textiles with green, health and fashion for the21stcentury. However, only the natural green and brown cotton could be applied for the NCC simpletone. In this thesis, the color characteristics of yarn and fabric blended with two kinds of NCCfibers were researched to improve the NCC color richness.Firstly, natural green, brown and white cotton were used to develop their blended yarnswith different blended ratios, and various samples of blended fabric were woven with eight satinweaves by the yarn. The color characteristics of NCC were analyzed in the condition of loosefiber, blended yarn and intertexture. Basing on color characteristics research, Stearns-Noechelmodel were employed to predict the NCC color and color difference between predictive valueand measured value were analyzed. Natural NCC/yellow silk intertexture with specialparticularities were designed, and the color property were studied. Experiment results wereshowed as follows:A good positive correlation on lightness between white cotton fiber content and lightness ofblended yarn and intertexture was observed, the fit coefficients is better. There is a relationshipbetween lightness value and fiber state at the same ratio: loose fiber>intertexture> blended yarn.There is a negative relationship between white cotton fiber content and saturation of blendedyarn and intertexture. Generally, the saturation of blended yarn is greater than intertexture at thesame ratio, which shows that the interweaving of yarn reduced the saturation of fabric. The hueof blended yarn and fabric enhances with the white cotton content increasing. It shows that thehue of loose fiber is larger than blended yarn at the same ratio. And the difference valueincreases with the blended ratios increasing.There is a phenomenon between loose fiber M value and the color difference. When the Mvalue is among0to1, the color difference enhances with the increasing of M value, and thendecreases. When the white cotton content is same, lightness of predicted value is greater thanloose fiber, and the blended yarn is the least. The predicted saturation and hue are basicallygreater than loose fiber and blended yarn. When the intertexture color is predicted, the error ofsaturation is greater than lightness and the hue error is the least. For loose fiber and blended yarn,the error enhances with the white cotton content increasing. While the blended yarn error is slightly larger than loose fiber error at the same ratio. And the white-green series error issignificantly lower than white-brown series.Based on SN model, the color matching of loose fiber, blended yarn and intertexture wasresearched, and the SN correction model is defined. The model consists of different correctioncoefficients, M value is0.09,0.13and0.01, separately, and the error is1.72,3.4and4.9,correspondingly.When the cotton content is the same, natural color cotton/silk fabric is sequenced bylightness in descending order: natural white cotton yarn/yellow silk> white-green blendedyarn/yellow silk> white-brown blended yarn. The intertexture lightness is maximum while thesilk proportion is minimum, namely cotton: cotton=40:60. Along with the increasing of thecotton proportion, the white cotton/yellow silk fabric lightness enhanced. The white-greencotton/yellow silk fabric and white-brown cotton/yellow silk fabric lightness enlarge with theincrement of cotton proportion, while the saturation decrease. When the proportion of whitecotton and colored cotton is60:40, the blended yarn interweaved with yellow silk, and thelightness and saturation of intertexture are the maximum when the cotton and silk proportion is85:15, namely the color property of NO.7and NO.12intertexture are the best.The glossiness of natural colored silk/cotton fabric improves with the increasing of thecotton content, and then decreases. |
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