| Tencel fiber that was researched by Courtaulds company in the 1980's is a new regenerated cellulose fiber. It is produced by dissolving wood pulp in NMMO solvent, then spinning directly. The production process needs only 3 hours , but the yield of Tencel fiber raises about six times compared with that of common rayon. The NMMO solvent is completely innocuousness to human bodyand can be completely recovered (about 99.5%) and reused. So the production process is green process. Tencel fiber is credited green fiber in the twenty-first centuries.Tencel fiber has hygroscopicity, comfortability, dyeability and can be biodegradable as cotton fiber. It has higher dry strength and wet strength, lower water shrinkage, better dimensional stability, wash and wear as polyester fiber. The Tencel fiber's cross section is circular, it's surface is slick and has silk luster, at the same time, it has good ability of blended spinning with other fibers. Tencel is the commercial name , its technical term is lyocell, and its general name is natural silk in our country. We are sure that Tencel fiber will replace common rayon which pollute environment seriously Tencel fabric can't present excellent wearing characteristics until dyeing and finishing. Now, documents in and out our country report that dyeing and finishing of Tencel fabric need specialist equipments and auxiliaries, its cost high, the technique difficulty is higher, and the process need promote perfection. Such that ,how to utilize normal dyeing and finishing equipment and detect dyeing and finishing processes of Tencel fabric for local enterprise is very urgent for dyeing and finishing industry of Henan Province.Tencel fiber molecule crack easily to form fibrilla for its special spinning process . In this way, the surface of Tencel fabric will appear a layer of fine staple by the function of wet and mechanical friction. The fine staple's like frosting. On the other hand , the Tencel fiber's swelling degree in cross section is very high , up to about 40%, so the fabric's construction change to tight and hard , it is easy to generate fray and wrinkle in dyeing and finishing processes, such as colored spot of crows' feet etc. So the swellability and fibrillation of Tencel fiber results in extremely difficult for dyeing and finishing processes. Thus, Tencel fabric is easy to display some defects such as stiffness fibrillation, unlevel dyeing, sad color, bad cover clear-cut and crease sensitivity etc. So the article takes orthogonal experiment design and variance analysis method , associates normal dyeing and finishing equipment of enterprise, studies systematically pretreatment, fibrillation, enzyme treatment and dyeing for Tencel fiber's dyeing and finishing processes, finds the best process parameters and conditions , firms technological process and provides theoretical proof in the end . |