Wool Fabric Eco-anti-felting Finishing The Study

Chlorine or its derivatives is often used in traditional shrinkproofing of wool. AOX (absorbable organic halogen) in chlorinating processes causes seriously environmental pollution. It is significant to develop non-chlorine shrinkproofing techniques for wool. Enzymatic treatments are considered to be one of the methods that possibly substitute the chlorination. As a biologic catalyzer, enzyme has already applied in the textile field because of the gentle reaction condition, high catalyzing efficiency and safety for environment. The construction of wool fiber is very complicated and the cuticle of the wool contains very high quantity of sulfur so the effectivity of the shrinkproofing of wool by enzyme especially by enzyme solely is not good. The applying method and riddling of the enzyme deserve to further research.The thesis mainly describes the mechanism of protease action on wool, the effect of protease treatment of wool on shrinkage, weight loss and so on. The paper also discussed the riddling and cultivation of the microorganism for wool keratin and the enzymology characteristic of the enzyme secreted by the microorganism.Four alkaline proteases, Savinase,Esperase,Woolase and Papaya Protease were selected to treat wool fabrics for shrink-resistance. We studied the effect of the non-chlorine oxidant H₂O₂ for pretreatment on Enzymatic treatment of the wool fabrics and proved effectiveness of the activation reagent A. The results show that the effective shrinkproof can not be obtained when wool fabric treated only using proteases. Oxidative pretreatment has great effect on the subsequent application of proteases. The proposition is explained by the Allworden reactions photographs of SEM. The shrinkage of the fabric is considerably decreased after treated by the combination of oxidant and protease. Although the shrinkproofing of wool is well when the wool fabric treated by the H₂O₂-enzyme system, the intension of the fabric is decreased seriously. The results showed that the combined using of two enzymes and using protective reagent A are effective for resistant of intension decrease.The paper discussed the growth character of the strain ZW for keratin degradation which was isolated from the sludge and enzymology characteristic of the crude enzyme. The research indicated that strain ZW is aerobiosis and it can use the wool keratin for the exclusive carbon and nitrogen resource. In the condition, 28℃, pH 9, the strain ZW can properly growth and can effectively use the wool keratin. The extrocellular enzyme is effective to wool keratin degradation and the crude enzyme has the highest vires in the condition of 45℃, pH 9. The enzyme is the most stable when the temperature between 20℃ and 50 ℃ and pH between 7 and 9.