Research On The Relationship Between Physical, Mechanical Properties And Sewing Pucker Of Thin Silk Fabric

Sewing pucker is one of the factors which affect the quality seriously in garment production, and it's especially noticeable when the fabric is so much thin. Physical properties, mechanical properties and structural parameters of the fabric will produce effects on the sewing pucker in various degrees. In practice, the technological process is always made as a matter of experience. The ambiguity and indeterminacy exist in the production bring difficulties to the process. Have a good knowledge of physical properties, mechanical properties and structural parameters, and apply these to the production will control the sewing pucker effectively. On the basis of fixed common external conditions in garment production, the relationship between physical properties, mechanical properties, structural parameters of the fabric and the sewing pucker is studied to improve the sewing pucker in production.First of all, this paper gives a study summarization both at home and abroad and an analysis of related methods and achievements in this field, then describes the function and importance of the study on sewing puckers in different angles. Thirty seven thin fabrics were selected to test their structural parameters, physical and mechanical properties in warp, weft and oblique by FAST Style and KES Style, and the differences of the parameters in three angles were analyzed.This paper mainly studies the effects of physical properties, mechanical properties and structural parameters on sewing of thin silk fabric in the same angle respectively in warp and weft angle. The correlation between each performances and subjective, objective evaluation of sewing pucker is determined by relationship analysis, and the relationships between them are further studied by regression analysis. At the mean time, the question whether the stack sequence will cause a difference between seam shrinkage rate is solved.An experiment on sewing pucker in three different angles is carried out. Fabric of warp,oblique and weft angle are sewed each other,it has a mean and S.D analysis, the result compared with the data of the same angle sewing, and it analyzes the relationship between shift rate and seam shrinkage rate. It has a scatter analysis for sewing pucker rate and the gap of upper and lower mechanical properties, and whether they have a line relationship. Then, it has a an Correlation Analysis between seam pucker rate, shift rate and the gap of upper and lower mechanical properties, which determines the mechanical properties for difference angle sewing.Finally, it has a summary of the analysis with subjective and objective evaluation in. It points out the most significant parameters of subjective and objective evaluation in the same angle sewing, including extension, flexural rigidity, shearing rigidity and formability, and the relationship between shift rate and upper and lower mechanical properties difference in the different angle sewing. While the problems in this paper and to be further investigated are also discussed.